Non-Hazardous Wastes are Still Regulated - Biomedical Waste
Non-Hazardous Wastes are Still Regulated - Biomedical Waste
What Is Non Hazardous Waste? - IDR Environmental Services
Difference between hazardous and non-hazardous waste - Dsposal
Non-hazardous waste: treatment and disposal - GOV.UK
About Hazardous and Non-Hazardous Waste
Non hazardous Materials List - Auburn University
Non-Hazardous Chemicals List - Environmental Health and Safety
10 Examples of Biohazardous Waste | Daniels Health
Examples of Hazardous Waste | GemChem
Examples Of Non Hazardous Industrial Waste
examples of non hazardous waste materials
examples of non hazardous waste materials - win
My First DD - Calix (ASX:CXL)
My first time...... Y'all seem alright so here goes Share price: $1.60 Mc: $238.158m Shares: 148.85m Sector: Materials Disclaimer: Held (Edit: sorry, this is getting long now, was trying to avoid that) About: Calix is a science/technology company that has developed a patented kiln technology ('Calix Flash Calciner') to process and extract minerals. Their technology allows them to address major global challenges through practical industrial solutions. The calciner technology is the foundation of their business, so you should try to understand it as well as you can. It will help with understanding future projects, announcements and research wherever it leads you. (Note: Kiln/calciner technology has literally not been updated/modernised for thousands of years) Tech - Summary:
Calix's patented calciner processes minerals via indirect heating rather than traditional direct heating. This results in a higher potency end-product, and is more environmentally friendly and efficient.
This also allows for capturing of carbon as a by-product to be repurposed or sequestered at a later date.
Currently, areas of industry that are being addressed are limestone and cement, waste-water treatment, aquaculture, agriculture, and advanced battery industries. Basically, they're addressing climate challenges facing major polluting industries and providing solutions. A major one being the cement industry, which contributes roughly 8% of global CO2 emissions. They are currently building their LEILAC-2 (Low Emission Intensity Lime And Cement) facility in Hannover after successful pilot in Belgium. Financials: FY20 Revenue: $24.44m, up 75% compared to FY19 EBITDA: $1.5m up 224% "" Profit/loss: -$7.08m, up from -$7.49m in FY19
Acquisition December 2019 - US-based Inland Environmental Resources Inc. for $9.7m (AUD.. I think)
FY21 Trading Update (ASX announcements, 6/11/20) Figures as of end October:
Total revenue YTD: $8.38m (up 124% vs YTD FY20) Sales revenue YTD: $5.78m (up 333% vs YTD FY20) Most revenues attributable to waste water treatment and aquaculture sales verticals as far as I'm aware. Why I like them: Great execution thus far. Good relationship with industry. R&d support from Aus govt (incl. tax bens and grants) and European Union. Bloody true blue Aussie business ay. Mgmt: See here because that's enough words from me https://www.calix.global/who-we-are/our-leadership-team/ For the podcasters: https://open.spotify.com/episode/6jri8UaX52Nm05y96PoBit?si=cxrTc8djROWQwLYxIU3xLg&utm_source=copy-link KEBAB OUT ~ Updated Summary of products and solutions on market Products/Solutions ~ These are just summaries compiled into one doc. Please click links to further research, which will lead to Calix’s pages where you can see examples of practical uses and results in the real world. ~ Text is mostly direct from Calix’s website and sections contained within. Few and minor personal additions have been made. ~ ACTI-Mag = Magnesium hydroxide or Mg(OH)2
ACTI-Mag for Wastewater
a) Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide/NaOH) replacement
While ACTI-Mag is typically more expensive than 50% NaOH on a “price per unit” basis, it is significantly less expensive in use – because every 1.0 kg of 50% NaOH can be replaced by 0.6 kgs of 60% Mg(OH)2 to provide the same number of moles of hydroxide (OH-) for pH neutralization.
ACTI-Mag provides more CaCO3 equivalent alkalinity on an equal weight basis when compared to hydrated lime and caustic soda which lowers chemical consumption. Unlike caustic soda, ACTI-Mag is non-hazardous and non-corrosive, and even beneficial to the environment while sodium is a salinity hazard.
Reducing BOD/COD means that the sewage will support the growth of less bacteria and therefore the effluent will be better able to infiltrate tight soils. We can help you reduce the organic component from your wastewater streams.
Higher concentration of FOG can lead to the formation of fat bergs (lol), scamming, pump blockages, pipe restriction, pipe blockage plus the formation of odour related issues like hydrogen sulfide gas (H2S). ACTI-Mag is a safe and environmentally friendly solution for FOGs in wastewater
Hydrogen sulphide is present due to anaerobic activity, which favours sulfate reducing bacteria (SRB) and results in the generation of a poisonous rotten egg gas called H2S. Unlike other agents, which can be costly, potentially hazardous, and targeted at a single issue, ACTI-Mag offers a safe and cost-effective strategy for managing odour.
Phosphorus – usually in the form of phosphates – has to be treated and reduced from the wastewater in order to meet environmental standards before it is discharged into a local water body, or land irrigation. With a chemistry similar to the antacids used in our human digestive systems, Calix can safely and cost-effectively remove phosphate from municipal and industrial wastewater.
Treating wastewater from water utilities and industries has a dual potential benefit. Treated water can be recycled to help cut down industries’ fresh water use, and the waste load in wastewater can be converted to biogas and used to produce electricity.
Anaerobic digestion is a natural process that converts organic matter present in wastewater sludge into biogas for electricity, as well as significantly reducing the contaminant load in treated water.
The energy produced from the biogas can be fed back into the grid or used in other parts of the production process, which represents a real opportunity to reduce energy costs.
AQUA-Cal+ is made by flash calcining a mixture of magnesite and dolomite (contains calcium) to produce a unique, very high surface area powder, and then hydrating the powder to produce a slurry for ease of application to ponds. It has been specially formulated to impact on both the aqueous and benthic ecosystems in the pond.
AQUA-Cal+ works as a water and pond bottom conditioner; clarifying the water, controlling pH and releasing alkalinity as required to aid in the digestion of organic matter.
With stabilised conditions in the pond, stress is reduced. When stress is reduced and water conditions are improved, both fish and prawns become healthier and more productive. Reduction in prawn mortality rate.
Sludge volume reduced - pond bottom septicity is prevented
Iron suppression: Conditioning with AQUA-Cal+ removes the iron by flocculation from the water, significantly reducing turbidity and toxicity. The stocking of the pond after the water is conditioned reduces the subsequent mortality of the post-larvae.
Results from trials on both Pacific White Shrimp and Tiger Prawns show that AQUA-Cal+ has a superior performance to probiotics in controlling ammonia, nitrite and pond bottom sludge.
Eutrophication in ponds and lakes has become a major environmental problem.
Nitrates and phosphates, especially from lawn fertilizers, grass clippings and leaves from surrounding parks, run off the land into rivers and lakes, detergents, food and human waste are often to blame. This, combined with little water movement can cause unpleasant odours and persistent blue green algal blooms.
Eutrophication can have serious effects, like algal blooms that block light from getting into the water and harm the plants and animals that need it. If there's enough overgrowth of algae, it can prevent oxygen from getting into the water, making it hypoxic and creating a dead zone where no organisms can survive.
Water clarification
Ph and alkalinity control, sludge digestion, removal of bad odours, reduction in phosphate and ammonia (struvite reaction), provide additional O2.
Calix BOOSTER-Mag is a revolutionary (their words) agricultural solution for increased yield, more efficient fertiliser usage, insect/pest management, and fungal control.
Safe, low-cost, environmentally sustainable and easy to apply, BOOSTER-Mag can improve yield and natural resistance to pests and diseases. It demonstrably provides a sustainable safety, simplicity and productivity benefit.
LEILAC is piloting a breakthrough technology that will enable both Europe’s cement and lime industries to reduce their emissions while retaining, or even increasing international and cross sectorial competitiveness.
Carbon capture is not yet included in the available technologies for cement and lime. The international and EU community recognises that CO2 emissions contribute to climate change, and the approach to reducing such emissions to-date for the cement and lime industries has been to increase kiln efficiencies and utilise alternative fuels. Once tested in LEILAC and scaled up, Direct Separation should reduce the costs of carbon capture considerably and accelerate the deployment in both industries.
Calix’s technology re-engineers the existing process flows of a traditional calciner, indirectly heating the limestone via a special steel vessel. This unique system enables pure CO2 to be captured as it is released from the limestone, as the furnace exhaust gases are kept separate. It is also a solution that requires no additional chemicals or processes, and requires minimal changes to the conventional processes for cement as it simply replaces the calciner. https://www.calix.global/reduce-co2-emission/project-leilac/
OP’s conclusion: In my personal opinion, Calix’s competitive advantage lies in its environmentally conscious, top-down approach to being part of the solution of decarbonising big industries. They are all highly competitive spaces with a lot of different players working on a bunch of different things. At the end of the day it will be hard for them to be leaders in all, or even one, of these areas. However, the company is still young when you think about the scope and breadth of advantages to different industries that their technologies and processes accommodate. ~ As always this information is for education purposes only, and is in no way a buy, hold or sell recommendation. Don’t seek financial advice from Reddit.
Hi all, I've been putting together info for how to recycle in Tucson while leveraging all the recycling options that are open to me: curbside, the city's upcoming glass drop-off, local and mail-in corporate-sponsored, and TerraCycle (a paid option). I aim to reuse or recycle every last bit of waste coming out of our house, no matter how crazy it may seem. Partly I just want to see how difficult it is; I recognize that my process isn't practical for most people. Anyway, here's what I've gathered so far.
General principles
COMPOST: If it can be composted, compost it! (More on this below.)
REUSE: If it can't be composted, reuse it! Reuse is always the most environmentally-friendly option.
DONATE: If it can't be reused by you, donate it if it's something worth donating that someone else could use. https://tucsoncleanandbeautiful.org/ has a great directory for places that will accept various materials. Cero is a Tucson store that also accepts lots of stuff for donation and reuse. Donation usually involves transportation and some kind of carbon emissions, but it's still better than recycling. Don't donate junk! Donations aren't a free trash can.
MUNICIPAL RECYCLING: If it can't be donated, recycle it locally using municipal recycling (curbside or drop-off). Recycle Coach has all the info you need on what municipal recycling can or can't recycle. ESGD's page on residential recycling also has some important guidelines. Recycling uses energy and involves carbon-emitting transport, plus not everything in a recycling waste stream actually gets recycled, so try to reuse first.
LOCAL STORE DROP-OFF: If it can't be recycled using municipal recycling, recycle it at a local store for free. Earth911 has a search page that finds these stores and breaks them down by type, and TerraCycle's corporate-sponsored programs page also has some local programs. These programs typically ship their waste to a recycling partner, often TerraCycle in New Jersey, which adds to the environmental footprint of the process, so try to recycle municipally first.
FREE MAIL-IN: If it can't be recycled at a local store, use one of TerraCycle's free corporate-sponsored mail-in programs. These programs end up sending waste TerraCycle, just like the local store drop-offs, but are arguably less efficient than sending a big communal batch of stuff, so try to use the local store drop-offs first.
TERRACYCLE (PAID): If it can't be recycled using a mail-in program, use a paid all-in-one box to have TerraCycle recycle it if it's small and light. This is effectively the same as using one of the mail-in options above except that you have to pay, so try to use a mail-in program first.
REGIONAL DROP-OFF: If it's a big bulky waste that can't be donated, see if it can be recycled outside of Tucson (e.g., save up Styrofoam for the next time I drive to Phoenix, where they do have the appropriate facilities). TerraCycle accepts almost anything, but their all-in-one boxes are pricey, so it may make more sense to save up big hard-to-recycle stuff like packaging for Phoenix or another big city, if you think you'll drive there at some point. Don't make unnecessary trips just to drop off waste!
GOLDEN RULE #1: Make sure that the material is clean. Clean waste streams are more valuable to recyclers, which helps keep costs down. Don't use too much water cleaning up stuff, but don't feel too guilty about using water, either! Dishwater usage is a tiny sliver of household water consumption, not to mention that industry and agriculture generally use much more water than homes.
GOLDEN RULE #2: The goal of recycling is to break down your waste into "primary materials" (e.g., plastic, metal, paper, glass) that can be used by industry to make new products. The more mixed your materials, the more you need to research how to recycle it. Knowing the basics goes a long way. For example, I know that metal cans get melted down, so a paper or plastic label attached to the can doesn't worry me because I know that it will get burned off. But what about a milk carton, which is paper fused with plastic? Or the circuitry inside the plastic base of a CFL bulb? If you can't intuitively explain how the thing is going to get broken down into its primary materials, that's your cue that you need to do some research.
GOLDEN RULE #3: Knowing the basics of how recycling centers work goes a long way. For example, if you know that you can't recycle plastic grocery bags curbside because they get stuck in the machines, that's a hint that you shouldn't try to recycle your plastic food wrap, either. Or if you know that plastic bottle caps fall through the holes of a separator, that's a hint that you need to research whether your beer bottle caps are recyclable (even though they're metal).
Reuse and recycling guide for my home
This is not a comprehensive list of every recycling resource in Tucson, this is just for my house my household's needs. I've found that there's no one-size-fits-all solution if you want to reach close to 100% recycling/reuse, you end up having to come up with a list that's customized for your home, which requires research. I'm providing my list as a potential template as well as for inspiration. Legend:
Batteries and Bulbs batteries = drop off at a local Batteries and Bulbs (program page); don't mix with other Batteries and Bulbs recycling
Batteries and Bulbs bulbs = ditto
Gillette = mail-in/drop-off program (there's a drop-off point at Bullets Barber Shop in midtown; note that the Beauty Republic listing on TerraCycle's program page is inaccurate. I spoke with Beauty Republic's owner and confirmed this.)
Rechargeable batteries and battery packs (e.g., lithium ion): Batteries and Bulbs batteries
Alkaline and other single-use batteries: TerraCycle
Bulbs: Batteries and Bulbs bulbs
Cleaning supplies
Used wipes: TerraCycle
Non-tub, hard plastic containers (laundry, spray bottles, etc.): curbside
Other
Fabric scraps: Cero reuse
Plastic mailers (e.g., those bubble wrap pouches that Amazon sometimes uses; as long as they're clean and in reusable condition): Cero reuse
Stationery (e.g., pens, glue sticks, paint sets, flexible packaging; NOT white out): Cero stationery
Styrofoam: small items go to TerraCycle, big bulky items (e.g., box packaging) go to The Perfect Block
How do I sort all this?
Right now, I'm using a makeshift system of lots and lots of bags to keep everything separate. My idea is to do a monthly "recycling day" and drop off everything that needs to be dropped off as well as mail in everything that needs to be mailed in. I haven't had to do this yet since I started this project. I hope to build a sorting station in my house once I understand my needs a bit better.
Notes on TerraCycle and partner programs
A lot of the corporate-sponsored/mail-in/drop-off programs are done through TerraCycle, a New Jersey-based recycler that specializes in recycling hard-to-recycle things (e.g., potato chip bags, toothbrushes). They make lots of their money through large corporations, which essentially pay them to process unprofitable waste in order to burnish their environmental stewardship bona fides. They also offer paid recycling pouches and boxes to the general public. You mail in these pouches/boxes (they come with a shipping label) after filling them up with recyclable waste. TerraCycle will recycle almost anything and everything. However, anything that gets recycled through them or one of their corporate programs is shipped to New Jersey for processing, so it's preferable to reuse or recycle locally. They're also not as transparent as I wish they would be. I'm not certain, for example, how much of each waste stream actually gets recycled. They have a customer support contact form that's been very good for getting my questions answered, but beware that they take about 2-3 days to get back to you per request. I bought the large "all-in-one" box from their site and found a coupon code online to bring the cost down to around $350. I read a review elsewhere from someone who got a medium box (about 50% the size) who said that it lasted her six months. My idea is to use this box as "recycling of last resort" and rely on drop-off programs as much as possible to keep costs down. On the other hand, this makes my life more complicated in terms of sorting different waste streams, so you could simplify by putting waste destined for various drop-off points into a single TerraCycle all-in-one box. You need to register for free on their website to use their mail-in programs. Many of their mail-in programs unfortunately have wait lists. Of the ~15 programs for which I signed up around two weeks ago, about 8 had wait lists, and I got off the wait list for about 5 of them. So they seem to go through the list pretty regularly. Once you're in, you can print off a free UPS label from the "my profile" section of the site after logging in. If I had to take a wild guess, I would assume that TerraCycle has a higher rate of recycling than municipal programs, but this must be balanced against the financial and environmental cost of shipping waste to their facilities.
Composting
The Achilles' heel in my recycling and reuse plan is organic matter. The City of Tucson has a composting program but it's only open to businesses. There are a few volunteer-run programs here and there that accept compostable waste. I managed to sign up for one, UA's Compost Cats, and will be meeting them tomorrow to pick up my sealed composting bucket and go over the program rules. I know that they have limited capacity, so you have to email them. They took about a week to get back to me.
Alena at Desert Rose Collective, who makes beautiful household goods from reused local bottles, jars and other materials. (Btw, I emailed her and she explained that she's not currently accepting donations for reuse due to COVID-19, but that in the future she plans to accept glass jars or bottles with lids.)
Preface forTheeHiveBees: I promised this safety plan quite some time ago. It has turned into quite the arduous, yet rewarding and insightful, task. The following document is best suited for BabyBees, and I will post it there as soon as possible after posting here; however, I hope that it will contain valuable information for most, if not all, bees. I, myself, am by no means an expert bee (although I possess a good deal of chemical knowledge in the ordinary sense, especially in regard to safety, at this point, and have a lot of experience in professional labs, mostly quantitative). As a result, I would like this to be a working document, and as such, I will consider any and all edits that other bees recommend. Please comment or DM any input or questions you may have. I am greatly indebted to all of you who have all ready provided assistance, and apologize if I missed any of your previous recommendations. *I especially need some assistance with waste disposal (last section) information. I only know about professional waste disposal, which we obviously want to avoid when possible. Table of Contents: I. Introduction II. Basic Laboratory Safety Rules III. Dress, Preparation, and PPE for Lab Work A. Basic Considerations B. PPE C. Lab Setup D. Behavior and Technique IV. Chemical Safety A. SDS B. Chemical Labeling C. Chemical Storage D. Bonding and Grounding E. Peroxide Forming Molecules and Shelf Lives V. Labware Safety A. Glassware B. Support C. Tubing D. Heat E. Electricity VI. Reaction Safety A. Fume Hoods B. Additional Tips VII. Emergency Procedures A. Emergency Shower and Eyewash Stations B. Fire Extinguishers C. Fire Blankets D. Spills E. First Aid VIII. Post-Procedure Protocols A. Personal Hygiene B. Facility Hygiene C. Waste Disposal ____________________________________________________________________________ II. Basic Laboratory Safety Rules:
Never work alone, and alert others on the premises that you are about to conduct lab work. If you are blinded, set on fire, burnt, frightened, accidentally intoxicated, experience a health emergency, or are otherwise put in danger, you may be unable to remedy the situation alone, which could lead to death, permanent blindness, disfigurement, etc. Be sure that you and/or another has the ability to call 911.
Wear proper PPE at all times and avoid other hazardous dress (see the section on PPE below).
Always prepare for the worst!! Wear the PPE and take the precautions that will protect against the worst case scenario given the chemicals and processes you work with.
Never eat, drink, chew gum, or have any unnecessary items in the lab in case of contamination (of the items, self, or the experiment).
Keep the lab clean, sanitary, and organized.
Never allow walkways or exits to become obstructed.
Thoroughly study the SDS for each chemical you work with.
Have emergency procedures in place, including fire extinguishers, fire blankets, first aid, spill kits, emergency showers, and eyewash station.
Understand peroxide-forming chemicals, and evaluate shelf-lives of materials.
Bond and ground flammable and combustible fluids.
Use a fume hood.
Store and handle reagents properly.
Add acids and bases to water, never vice-versa.
Never look into the end of any glassware wherein a reaction is taking place.
III. Dress, Preparation, and PPE for Lab Work A. Basic Considerations: Before we apply PPE, there are some basic precautions that must be taken in terms of dress and personal hygiene. Do NOT:
Wear loose fitting clothing that may knock things over, catch fire, or soak up chemicals.
Wear jewelry for the above reasons. Metals in jewelry may also react with certain chemicals.
Unnecessarily expose any skin.
Wear contact lenses, unless full, non-ventilated goggles are also worn.
Do:
Maintain personal hygiene to avoid contamination.
Wear all proper PPE, especially gloves and goggles at all times.
Wash hands and change gloves as frequently as possible.
Wear closed-toe, thick, shoes.
Wear tight-fitting clothing that covers as much skin as possible- long sleeves, long pants, closed shirt, and lab coat.
B. PPE (Personal Protective Equipment): The most obvious safety practice is the use of personal protective equipment. However, PPE is the last system of defense against chemical hazards. Practitioners should focus their efforts on the maintenance of a safe work environment, proper training, and the replacement of more with less dangerous chemicals where possible. We will classify PPE into three sections- eye, body, and respiratory protection. (note: larger labs and some rare reactions may also require hearing protection, light-restrictive eye protection, hard hats, and other forms of protection as necessary). Eye Protection: Chemical splash goggles Eye protection is not just to prevent impact, which is all that general safety goggles, with or without side shields, do. General safety goggles and eyeglasses offer limited protection against sprays, and do NOT prevent splash hazards, which may come from any angle or drip down one’s face into the eyes. Additionally, some chemical fumes are eye irritants. Bees should wear chemical splash goggles labeled with the code Z87.1, which denotes compliance with safety standards. The goggles must fit snugly against the face and remain on at all times. Suggestion: Chemical Splash/Impact Goggle.
Do not touch your eyes while in a lab.
Never wear contact lenses in a lab- some chemicals may react with them, and liquids may get trapped under them, exacerbating eye damage and reducing effectiveness of emergency eye washes.
Face shields that cover the entire face may be necessary for chemicals that are particularly corrosive, flammable, or explosive.
Body Protection: Long clothes that cover as much skin as possible is a must. This means closed shoes or boots, pants, long sleeves, a lab coat, and gloves. Tie back long hair. Change gloves and wash hands as often as possible, especially before leaving the lab. Recognize that touching things such as your phone with your gloves on may spread toxic chemicals.
Gloves: Keep a large amount of gloves on hand. This includes boxes of traditional nitrile/latex gloves, and at least one pair each of heat/cold resistant and thick-rubber, arm-length, corrosive-resistant gloves.
All gloves are permeable- even the proper glove will only protect for a period of time. Many chemicals will eventually work their way through them. It is imperative that gloves are changed and hands washed as often as possible.
If more than one type of hand protection is necessary, multi-hazard protective gloves are available; otherwise, gloves may be layered.
All used gloves should be considered hazardous. Throw them away in a safe place, and do not wear or carry them outside of the lab area.
2. Lab Coats: Multi-hazard protection lab coats are best, and should be both fire (FR) and chemical splash (CP) resistant. Most basic lab coats found online or in stores are not FCP. Proper coats are more expensive, but are absolutely worthwhile as they may prevent fire, chemical burns, and even death (research the UCLA tert-butyllithium incident). Here is an example of a proper lab coat: Lab Coat.
If you work with corrosive chemicals, a chemical splash apron, arm-length rubber gloves, and face shields may be necessary.
Keep lab coats in the lab area unless they are washed. They should be assumed to contain hazardous chemicals.
3. Respiratory Protection: Never smell chemicals or inhale their fumes. Use a fume hood when necessary and keep containers closed tightly. In case of a large chemical spill, evacuate immediately. Use a fume hood with any organic solvent, concentrated acids, and concentrated ammonia. Use respirators when working with fine powders or toxic fumes. C. Lab setup: Develop a thorough floor plan before equipping your lab. Priorities:
Ventilation- Air must flow from other areas of the facility or home to the lab area, and subsequently out of the building. Fume hoods must immediately direct airflow out of building.
Maximize open work space and visibility, and minimize obstruction throughout the work area.
Allow ample space between and within workstations.
Include ample lighting.
Include ample (excess) storage space that is separate from lab spaces where reactions take place.
Use OSHA approved acid, corrosive, and flammable storage cabinets.
Strategically place first aid, wash stations, spill control kits, fire extinguishers and blankets such that all are easily accessible in case of emergency, and such that an emergency itself (e.g. fire) will not obstruct access.
Doors should, preferably, hinge outward to promote prompt evacuation.
All wash stations must have a proper drain.
Large sinks are best, and there should be one per workstation.
All electrical and gas lines must be easily severable or closable.
Black epoxy resin surfaces are preferred.
Install and routinely check smoke detectors.
D. Behavior and Technique:
Keep a proper lab notebook that records all procedures.
Gather all needed glassware, labware, and chemicals before beginning an experiment.
Keep all equipment clean and dry when not in use.
Never add solvent to acids, bases, etc!! This could result in a violent reaction. All ways prepare the solvent first, and slowly add the acid or base to it.
Eliminate distractions.
Stay organized and keep the lab uncluttered.
Bond and ground when pouring flammable or combustible liquids.
Use the right tool for the job. Do not skimp or substitute glassware.
IV. Chemical Safety A. SDS: The first and most vital step to understand how to safely handle chemicals is thorough, proper, and regular review of Safety Data Sheets. It is recommended that physical copies of SDSs be kept for all chemicals in the laboratory. Safety Data Sheets can be found online as well, and should be reviewed each time a chemical is used, at least until one has extensive experience with that chemical. Safety and storage information should also be reviewed for any compounds synthesized, as well as any side products or impurities. The format of an SDS is an update to the traditional MSDS, and follows the guidelines prescribed by the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling of Chemicals (GHS) established in March 2012. A traditional MSDS is likely to contain all or most of the necessary information; however, SDS has the benefit of a strict and easy to follow format that includes the following 16 sections: Section 1—Identification: Chemical/product name, name and contact information of producer. Section 2—Hazard(s) Identification: All known hazards of the chemical and required label elements. The GHS identifies three hazard classes: health (toxicity, carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, etc.), physical (corrosive, flammable, combustible, etc.), and environmental hazards. There are 16 types of physical hazards and 10 types of health hazards. Next to each listed hazard is a rank/category from 1-4, with 1 being the most severe level of hazard. Next are hazard pictograms, a signal word, and hazard (H) statements and precautionary (P) statements. Pictograms allow chemists to quickly understand the basic hazards of a chemical, and must be on the chemical label. What pictograms a chemical requires is quantitatively determined, and users should become familiar with them. 📷 There are two signal words- Danger!, and Warning!, the former being more serious than the latter. P and H statements list specifically hazardous situations and precautions that must be taken when handling the chemical. Section 3—Composition/Information on Ingredients Section 4—First-Aid Measures Section 5—Fire-Fighting Measures Section 6—Accidental Release Measures: What to do in case of accidental spill or release of chemicals, proper containment, and cleanup. Section 7—Handling and Storage Section 8—Exposure Controls/Personal Protection: Includes exposure limits. Section 9—Physical and Chemical Properties: appearance, odor, flashpoint, solubility, pH, evaporation rates, etc. Section 10—Stability and Reactivity: Chemical stability and possible hazardous reactions. Section 11—Toxicological Information: Routes of exposure (inhalation, ingestion, or absorption contact), symptoms, acute and chronic effects, and numerical measures of toxicity. Sections 12-15 are optional, but include ecological information, disposal considerations, transportation information, and regulatory information. Section 16-- includes any additional information the producer may want to portray. B. Chemical Labeling: All chemicals should be labeled at all times to avoid hazard, confusion, and waste.
Containers that are being used in a procedure (beakers, flasks, wash bottles, etc.) may simply be labeled with a piece of scotch tape and a permanent marker.
Vessels that will be heated can be labeled with a heat-resistant paint marker.
Chemicals that will be stored (whether produced or purchased) should be labeled with at minimum the chemical name, date of production/purchase/opening, and safety concerns. Simple labels may be used for containers that are not in the manufacturer’s packaging.
C. Chemical Storage: General Reagents:
Keep storage spaces organized, clean, and uncluttered.
All chemicals should be stored properly whenever not in use.
Store bottles away from shelf edges, and/or have lipped shelves to prevent falls from, and contain spills on, shelves.
Keep seals tight.
Keep an inventory.
Always label chemicals properly, including the dates received and opened.
Bees may opt to cover glass containers in clear packing tape to reduce mess if a bottle is broken.
Store flammable and combustible liquids in a flammable cabinet. An old fridge is a good method of storage for bees. Never store food or drink in the same refrigerator.
Do not store liquids above solids.
Always store corrosive chemicals on spill trays.
Store odoriferous and toxic chemicals in ventilated cabinets.
Keep heavy containers on bottom shelves, and don’t store in high places or on the floor unless properly protected.
Acetone with- bromine, chlorine, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, or hydrogen peroxide (do not use acetone to clean receptacles that have had these chemicals in them!).
Iodine with- acetylene, ammonia, or hydrogen.
Water- keep all other chemicals away from water unless in solution. Especially avoid hydration of acetyl chloride, alkaline and alkaline earth metals, barium peroxide, carbides, chromic acid, phosphorus oxychloride, phosphorus pentachloride, phosphorous pentoxide, sulfuric acid, or sulfur trioxide.
Nitric Acid with- acetone, acetic acid, alcohol, chromic acid, aniline, hydrocyanic acid, hydrogen sulfide, or any flammable substances (keep this in mind when cleaning with nitric acid).
Hydrogen Peroxide with- copper, chromium, iron, most metals or salts of metals, alcohols, acetone, organic materials, aniline, nitromethane, flammable liquids, ammonia, or oxidizing agents.
Zinc and sulfur.
Mercury with- acetylene, fulminic acid, or ammonia.
Compressed Gasses:
Keep cylinders of compressed gasses secured
Keep appropriate breathing apparati in the vicinity, but not immediately near the compressed gases in case of emergency.
Keep the valve cap secured unless in use or connected to a line.
Do not store flammable gases near oxidizers or combustible materials.
Do not allow a cylinder to empty completely.
Dispose of cylinders after ten years, or three in the case of corrosive and toxic chemicals.
Note: avoid working with gases when possible. Gas chemistry has many complications, is often unsafe, and produces poor yields and poor quality products. Bulk Storage Containers:
Carboys: These are great for general purpose, and storage of chemicals no longer in their original container. However, they are not ideal for transport or use with acids, caustics, flammable liquids, or corrosive substances.
Safety Cans: have spring loaded lids and flame arresters. They are good for fluids in volumes less than five gallons, are safe for transporting most chemicals, and can be had for around $80. Recommended Safety Can.
Drums: for bulk chemicals. They may weigh in excess of 800 lb (364 kg), and should only be moved with a drum dolly, not rolled or dragged. Drums may be made of steel or high-strength plastics.
D. Bonding and Grounding: “Class I Liquids should not be run or dispensed into a container unless the nozzle and container are electrically interconnected.” (OSHA 29 CFR 1910.106(e)(6)(ii), ATEX directive, and NFPA UFC Div. VIII, Sec. 79.803a). An ungrounded static voltage (including from friction) may cause combustion of some fluids. Metal containers must be connected via a common grounding wire made of solid or braided wire, or welded connections, before fluid is poured between them. E. Peroxide-Forming Chemicals: A variety of common chemicals spontaneously form peroxide compounds under ordinary storage conditions due to reaction with oxygen. Peroxides are extraordinarily explosive, and can often be ignited by contact with heat, friction (incl. simply turning the cap of the container), and mechanical shock (incl. shaking, bumping, or dropping). Three classes of peroxide-forming chemicals are of particular interest, and are organized by the precautions that should be taken with unopened and opened containers. Class A Peroxide Formers: the most hazardous class. Unopened: discard or test for peroxides after 12 months or at manufacturer’s expiration date (whichever comes first). Opened: Test for peroxides quarterly. Common class A peroxide formers include: Butadiene (liquid monomer) Isopropyl ether Sodium amide (sodamide) Chloroprene (liquid monomer) Potassium amide Tetrafluoroethylene (liquid monomer) Divinyl acetylene Potassium metal Vinylidene chloride Class B Peroxide Formers: Unopened: discard or test for peroxides after 12 months or at manufacturer’s expiration date (whichever comes first). Opened: test for peroxide formation every 6 months. *Always test this class immediately before any distillation. Common Class B Peroxide Formers include: Acetal Cumene Diacetylene Methylacetylene 1-Phenylethanol Acetaldehyde Cyclohexanol Diethyl ether Methylcyclopentane 2-Phenylethanol Benzyl alcohol 2-Cychlohexen-1-ol Dioxanes MIBK 2-Propanol Benzaldehyde Cyclohexene Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether (glyme) 2-Pentanol Tetrahydrofuran 2-Butanol Decahydronaphthalene Furan 4-Penten-1-ol Class C Peroxide Formers: Same precautions as Class B. Include: Acrylic acid Chloroprene Styrene Vinyl acetylene Vinyladiene chloride Acrylonitirile Chlorotrifluoroethylene Tetrafluoroethylene Vinyl chloride Butadiene Methyl methacrylate Vinyl acetate Vinyl pyridine *Without opening, immediately dispose of any peroxide-forming chemical with any crystalline formation. Be careful not to open, shake, heat, or drop. Testing Peroxide-Forming Chemicals: Peroxide test strips can be bought cheaply online, or various in-lab tests can be performed: One method is to combine the fluid with an equal volume (1-3mL) of acetic acid (AcOH). To this a few drops of a 5% KI solution are added, and a color change indicates the presence of peroxides. Another method adds a small amount of the fluid to be tested (~0.5mL) to ~1mL 10% KI solution and ~0.5mL dilute HCL. To this a few drops of starch indicator are added, and the presence of blue/blue-black color within a minute indicates the presence of peroxides. Fluids with a LOW (<30ppm) concentration of peroxides can often be deperoxidated via filtration through activated alumina, distillation (not for THF!), evaporation, or chromatography. V. Labware Safety A. Glassware:
Always inspect glassware for cracks, chips, or fractures before use. Discard any glassware that is even slightly damaged.
Use glassware for its intended purpose! Heat fluids in a round-bottom boiling flask whenever possible.
Store on a shelf away from the edge. Round-bottomed flasks should be set on cork or tin holders, or padded into a drawer.
Joint grease reduces stuck joints, and therefore breakage.
Always carry glassware with two hands. Do not hold beakers by their sides, or flasks by the neck.
Clean glassware after any procedure, and before as necessary.
B. Support:
Use the fewest amount of clamps such that all structures are firmly held.
Support all flasks with rings.
Assemble apparati from bottom up.
Assemble such that liquid always passes through the male joint. Never allow fluid to pass into the joint. This prevents both leaks and lubricant contamination.
Do not over tighten clamps. Clamps should be tightened the minimum amount that provides a secure frame.
C. Tubing:
Cut glass tubing by placing a single slit in the desired position, then breaking by pulling the edges toward you and pushing the joint out.
Bend glass tubing by heating until red, and pulling ends toward self to form desired angle.
Use lubricant to insert tubing into stoppers, and wear hand protection during assembly.
DO NOT force glass together or into anything. Use minimal pressure, lubricant, and a gentle twisting motion if necessary.
D. Heating:
Heating mantles and hot plates are preferred over bunsen burners in almost all situations. Never unnecessarily introduce a flame to your lab environment.
Avoid rapid temperature changes whenever possible. Borosilicate glass is made for more rapid temperature changes. Heat and cool glass slowly. Do not set hot glass on a cold tabletop or under cold water.
Never look into the mouth of a receptacle that is being heated, or point it towards the self or others.
Use heat resistant gloves and/or tongs to handle hot receptacles or products.
Cover oil baths so they don’t splatter, or use a sand bath in its stead.
Always use boiling chips for reflux and distillation!
E. Electricity:
Be aware of electrical hazards. Check wires periodically, and keep the lab environment dry and clean.
Use power strips to protect equipment.
VI. Reaction Safety A. Fume Hoods: Fume hoods are absolutely essential whenever flammability, toxicity, or accidental intoxication is a concern. That includes all organic solvents, concentrated acids, and concentrated ammonia, as well as any materials that are both volatile and toxic, corrosive, reactive, or intoxicating. The face velocity of a fume hood should be around 100 ft/min or 0.5 m/s. Keep these guidelines in mind when using a fume hood:
Regularly check that air flow is not blocked.
Keep the sash open as little as possible to promote air flow.
Keep all chemicals and glassware at least 6 inches away from the edge of the workspace.
Air should flow from the fume hood directly to the outdoors.
Unfortunately, bees often find that fume hoods are the most difficult apparatus to obtain and install in a private laboratory. Nonetheless, it is imperative that each lab includes one. This is especially important for bees, who often work in confined spaces that can quickly and easily fill with toxic, flammable, or intoxicating vapors. A proper fume hood may cost several thousand dollars. Fortunately, there are many online guides and videos that teach how to construct one for as little as a few hundred dollars. The builder must meticulously ensure that air flow is adequate and constant. The outtake must be properly filtered, and there must not be any leaks through which air can flow other than the space under the sash and the outtake. B. Additional Tips:
Avoid gas chemistry whenever possible. It is often dangerous, difficult, and produces poor quality products and low yields.
Avoid pressurized systems whenever possible. They also present special risks.
After working with potentially pyrophoric agents that may not interact well with water or oxygen, flush apparati with pressurized inert gas before cleaning.
Do not clean bromine contaminated glassware with acetone, which forms bromoacetone, a tear gas.
Always use deionized water- tap water contains interruptive ions such as Mg2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, and Ca2+, as well as dissolved gasses.
VII. Emergency Procedures A. Emergency Shower and Eyewash Stations: If any hazardous chemical comes in contact with the body or eyes, the emergency shower or eye-wash station should be utilized immediately, with continued application for at least 15 minutes. The eyes should be held open for this entire process. Quality eye-wash stations can be purchased online for between 50 and several hundred US dollars. Bees who don’t have one installed are advised to purchase one. Some models can be attached directly to a sink faucet. An alternative, less effective, and minimal necessary precaution is bottled, eye-safe saline solution such as EyeSaline and Physician’s Care Eyewash Station, which can be purchased online for around $10 for a single bottle, and $30+ for kits. At least two bottles should be kept on hand in case both eyes are contaminated. Application of bottled solution to both eyes may require a partner, because the eyes must be held open to maximize effectiveness. For this, and other reasons (speed, difficulty/time of opening bottles vs. pushing a button, and water pressure) an actual eyewash station is in all ways preferred. Faucet-mounted eyewash stations such as the following are very affordable (US $59.95). Recommended Eyewash Station. Bees may not, however, have the space to install a safety shower. The home shower may be used in its stead; however, precaution must be taken to ensure it is easily accessible. The chemist should alert all others in the home/facility that they are working, and require that the door to the shower, and the path to it, be open at all times in case of emergency. B. Fire extinguishers:
Avoid working with flames whenever possible, especially when working with flammable solvents. Hot plates or heating mantles are preferable in almost all situations.
There are four classes of fires:
Class A- ordinary combustibles- wood, cloth, paper- can be extinguished with water, or general fire extinguishers. Class B- organic solvents, flammable liquids- chemical foam extinguishers (also work for class A and C). Class C- electrical equipment- chemical foam extinguishers. Class D- combustible metals such as aluminum, titanium, magnesium, lithium, zirconium, sodium, and potassium.
A dry chemical ABC extinguisher is usually adequate.
If you plan to work with combustible metals (not recommended unless necessary), make sure to have a class D dry chemical fire extinguisher. Other methods or classes of extinguishers will not put out a combustible metal fire. Note that class D fire extinguishers will not work for class A, B, or C fires.
Do not use a CO2 extinguisher- if it has to be used on the person it can cause frostbite and inhibit breathing.
C. Fire blankets: Used for small fires, or to put out a person who has caught fire (laying on ground, standing may cause the fire to move up the body to the head due to a chimney effect). D. Spills: Keep some vinegar or baking soda around to neutralize bases and acids, respectively. After acids and bases are neutralized, the chemical can be mopped up and placed in waste disposal. VIII. Post-Procedure Protocols A. Personal Hygiene: Wash hands, face, and all exposed skin after PPE has been removed to avoid recontamination by touching dirty clothes. Shower and change clothes once possible. B. Facility Hygiene: Clean all surfaces, glassware, and equipment before leaving the lab. Keep laboratory items in the lab, and personal items out of it. Chemicals may be transferred into the home through those items. Additionally, foreign objects have the potential to contaminate sterile laboratory environments. C. Waste Disposal: Waste disposal is one of the most important aspects of safety, image management, public relations, avoidance of fines or criminal charges, and environmental preservation.
Create a waste disposal plan before beginning a procedure or ordering a chemical.
Consult the SDS for all chemicals, individually or in a mixture.
Clearly label all containers, including waste.
Rinse out empty containers with an inert solvent several times before disposal.
Collect aqueous waste separately from organic solvent waste, and place solid waste in a labeled container for disposal. Flammable and toxic waste should be stored in a closed waste container in the fume hood until proper disposal is possible.
Non-hazardous waste may be disposed of in a landfill.
The Article “Management of Waste” found here states, “The best strategy for managing laboratory waste aims to maximize safety and minimize environmental impact, and considers these objectives from the time of purchase.” The article describes four tiers of waste management:
Pollution prevention and source reduction (green chemistry).
Reuse and redistribution of unwanted/surplus material (purchasing only what is needed).
Treatment, reclamation, and recycling of materials within the waste.
Disposal through incineration, treatment, or land burial. Additionally, use of solvent as fuel, or a fuel blender (the least desirable tier).
I hope this safety plan can save a few bees. I know there is a lot of information, but chemical safety is extremely important and multifaceted. Best of luck with your endeavors. Stay safe out there!
Table of Contents: I. Introduction II. Basic Laboratory Safety Rules III. Dress, Preparation, and PPE for Lab Work A. Basic Considerations B. PPE C. Lab Setup D. Behavior and Technique IV. Chemical Safety A. SDS B. Chemical Labeling C. Chemical Storage D. Bonding and Grounding E. Peroxide Forming Molecules and Shelf Lives V. Labware Safety A. Glassware B. Support C. Tubing D. Heat E. Electricity VI. Reaction Safety A. Fume Hoods B. Additional Tips VII. Emergency Procedures A. Emergency Shower and Eyewash Stations B. Fire Extinguishers C. Fire Blankets D. Spills E. First Aid VIII. Post-Procedure Protocols A. Personal Hygiene B. Facility Hygiene C. Waste Disposal IX. List of Edits ____________________________________________________________________________ I. Introduction: Chemistry is an extremely exciting endeavor; however, it can also be an exceedingly dangerous one. Professional chemists are disfigured, maimed, burned, and even killed every year. Clandestine chemists face even greater harm when they have a lack of knowledge, inadequate facilities, no established safety protocol, or a capricious attitude. If you want to be a productive bee, you will face untold hours of preparation. It will prove to be a worthwhile endeavor; however, it is not something to rush, and your chances of success are slim-to-none if you damage yourself, others, or your home/facility. The following document is very long and thorough. We won't pretend that bees are going to follow all of these recommendations, but I urge all baby bees to at least browse this document to become familiarize with the attitude of safety and some of the dangers of laboratory work. I am open to any and all recommendations, questions, and edits- this will be a working document. I wish you all luck in your exploration. Remember, however, that safety in the lab rarely comes down to luck- it is all about preparation, execution, and awareness of your surroundings. Safe travels, fellow bees! II. Basic Laboratory Safety Rules:
Never work alone, and alert others on the premises that you are about to conduct lab work. If you are blinded, set on fire, burnt, frightened, accidentally intoxicated, experience a health emergency, or are otherwise put in danger, you may be unable to remedy the situation alone, which could lead to death, permanent blindness, disfigurement, etc. Be sure that you and/or another has the ability to call 911.
Wear proper PPE at all times and avoid other hazardous dress (see the section on PPE below).
Always prepare for the worst!! Wear the PPE and take the precautions that will protect against the worst case scenario given the chemicals and processes you work with.
Never eat, drink, chew gum, or have any unnecessary items in the lab in case of contamination (of the items, self, or the experiment).
Keep the lab clean, sanitary, and organized.
Never allow walkways or exits to become obstructed.
Thoroughly study the SDS for each chemical you work with.
Have emergency procedures in place, including fire extinguishers, fire blankets, first aid, spill kits, emergency showers, and eyewash station.
Understand peroxide-forming chemicals, and evaluate shelf-lives of materials.
Bond and ground flammable and combustible fluids.
Use a fume hood.
Store and handle reagents properly.
Add acids and bases to water, never vice-versa.
Never look into the end of any glassware wherein a reaction is taking place.
III. Dress, Preparation, and PPE for Lab Work A. Basic Considerations: Before we apply PPE, there are some basic precautions that must be taken in terms of dress and personal hygiene. Do NOT:
Wear loose fitting clothing that may knock things over, catch fire, or soak up chemicals.
Wear jewelry for the above reasons. Metals in jewelry may also react with certain chemicals.
Unnecessarily expose any skin.
Wear contact lenses, unless full, non-ventilated goggles are also worn.
Do:
Maintain personal hygiene to avoid contamination.
Wear all proper PPE, especially gloves and goggles at all times.
Wash hands and change gloves as frequently as possible.
Wear closed-toe, thick, shoes.
Wear tight-fitting clothing that covers as much skin as possible- long sleeves, long pants, closed shirt, and lab coat.
B. PPE (Personal Protective Equipment): The most obvious safety practice is the use of personal protective equipment. However, PPE is the last system of defense against chemical hazards. Practitioners should focus their efforts on the maintenance of a safe work environment, proper training, and the replacement of more with less dangerous chemicals where possible. We will classify PPE into three sections- eye, body, and respiratory protection. (note: larger labs and some rare reactions may also require hearing protection, light-restrictive eye protection, hard hats, and other forms of protection as necessary). Eye Protection: Chemical splash goggles Eye protection is not just to prevent impact, which is all that general safety goggles, with or without side shields, do. General safety goggles and eyeglasses offer limited protection against sprays, and do NOT prevent splash hazards, which may come from any angle or drip down one’s face into the eyes. Additionally, some chemical fumes are eye irritants. Bees should wear chemical splash goggles labeled with the code Z87.1, which denotes compliance with safety standards. The goggles must fit snugly against the face and remain on at all times. Suggestion: Chemical Splash/Impact Goggle.
Do not touch your eyes while in a lab.
Never wear contact lenses in a lab- some chemicals may react with them, and liquids may get trapped under them, exacerbating eye damage and reducing effectiveness of emergency eye washes.
Face shields that cover the entire face may be necessary for chemicals that are particularly corrosive, flammable, or explosive.
Body Protection: Long clothes that cover as much skin as possible is a must. This means closed shoes or boots, pants, long sleeves, a lab coat, and gloves. Tie back long hair. Change gloves and wash hands as often as possible, especially before leaving the lab. Recognize that touching things such as your phone with your gloves on may spread toxic chemicals.
Gloves: Keep a large amount of gloves on hand. This includes boxes of traditional nitrile/latex gloves, and at least one pair each of heat/cold resistant and thick-rubber, arm-length, corrosive-resistant gloves.
All gloves are permeable- even the proper glove will only protect for a period of time. Many chemicals will eventually work their way through them. It is imperative that gloves are changed and hands washed as often as possible.
If more than one type of hand protection is necessary, multi-hazard protective gloves are available; otherwise, gloves may be layered.
All used gloves should be considered hazardous. Throw them away in a safe place, and do not wear or carry them outside of the lab area.
2. Lab Coats: Multi-hazard protection lab coats are best, and should be both fire (FR) and chemical splash (CP) resistant. Most basic lab coats found online or in stores are not FCP. Proper coats are more expensive, but are absolutely worthwhile as they may prevent fire, chemical burns, and even death (research the UCLA tert-butyllithium incident). Here is an example of a proper lab coat: Lab Coat.
If you work with corrosive chemicals, a chemical splash apron, arm-length rubber gloves, and face shields may be necessary.
Keep lab coats in the lab area unless they are washed. They should be assumed to contain hazardous chemicals.
3. Respiratory Protection: Never smell chemicals or inhale their fumes. Use a fume hood when necessary and keep containers closed tightly. In case of a large chemical spill, evacuate immediately. Use a fume hood with any organic solvent, concentrated acids, and concentrated ammonia. Use respirators when working with fine powders or toxic fumes. C. Lab setup: Develop a thorough floor plan before equipping your lab. Priorities:
Ventilation- Air must flow from other areas of the facility or home to the lab area, and subsequently out of the building. Fume hoods must immediately direct airflow out of building.
Maximize open work space and visibility, and minimize obstruction throughout the work area.
Allow ample space between and within workstations.
Include ample lighting.
Include ample (excess) storage space that is separate from lab spaces where reactions take place.
Use OSHA approved acid, corrosive, and flammable storage cabinets.
Strategically place first aid, wash stations, spill control kits, fire extinguishers and blankets such that all are easily accessible in case of emergency, and such that an emergency itself (e.g. fire) will not obstruct access.
Doors should, preferably, hinge outward to promote prompt evacuation.
All wash stations must have a proper drain.
Large sinks are best, and there should be one per workstation.
All electrical and gas lines must be easily severable or closable.
Black epoxy resin surfaces are preferred.
Install and routinely check smoke detectors.
D. Behavior and Technique:
Keep a proper lab notebook that records all procedures.
Gather all needed glassware, labware, and chemicals before beginning an experiment.
Keep all equipment clean and dry when not in use.
Never add solvent to acids, bases, etc!! This could result in a violent reaction. All ways prepare the solvent first, and slowly add the acid or base to it.
Eliminate distractions.
Stay organized and keep the lab uncluttered.
Bond and ground when pouring flammable or combustible liquids.
Use the right tool for the job. Do not skimp or substitute glassware.
IV. Chemical Safety A. SDS: The first and most vital step to understand how to safely handle chemicals is thorough, proper, and regular review of Safety Data Sheets. It is recommended that physical copies of SDSs be kept for all chemicals in the laboratory. Safety Data Sheets can be found online as well, and should be reviewed each time a chemical is used, at least until one has extensive experience with that chemical. Safety and storage information should also be reviewed for any compounds synthesized, as well as any side products or impurities. The format of an SDS is an update to the traditional MSDS, and follows the guidelines prescribed by the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling of Chemicals (GHS) established in March 2012. A traditional MSDS is likely to contain all or most of the necessary information; however, SDS has the benefit of a strict and easy to follow format that includes the following 16 sections: Section 1—Identification: Chemical/product name, name and contact information of producer. Section 2—Hazard(s) Identification: All known hazards of the chemical and required label elements. The GHS identifies three hazard classes: health (toxicity, carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, etc.), physical (corrosive, flammable, combustible, etc.), and environmental hazards. There are 16 types of physical hazards and 10 types of health hazards. Next to each listed hazard is a rank/category from 1-4, with 1 being the most severe level of hazard. Next are hazard pictograms, a signal word, and hazard (H) statements and precautionary (P) statements. Pictograms allow chemists to quickly understand the basic hazards of a chemical, and must be on the chemical label. What pictograms a chemical requires is quantitatively determined, and users should become familiar with them. 📷 There are two signal words- Danger!, and Warning!, the former being more serious than the latter. P and H statements list specifically hazardous situations and precautions that must be taken when handling the chemical. Section 3—Composition/Information on Ingredients Section 4—First-Aid Measures Section 5—Fire-Fighting Measures Section 6—Accidental Release Measures: What to do in case of accidental spill or release of chemicals, proper containment, and cleanup. Section 7—Handling and Storage Section 8—Exposure Controls/Personal Protection: Includes exposure limits. Section 9—Physical and Chemical Properties: appearance, odor, flashpoint, solubility, pH, evaporation rates, etc. Section 10—Stability and Reactivity: Chemical stability and possible hazardous reactions. Section 11—Toxicological Information: Routes of exposure (inhalation, ingestion, or absorption contact), symptoms, acute and chronic effects, and numerical measures of toxicity. Sections 12-15 are optional, but include ecological information, disposal considerations, transportation information, and regulatory information. Section 16-- includes any additional information the producer may want to portray. B. Chemical Labeling: All chemicals should be labeled at all times to avoid hazard, confusion, and waste.
Containers that are being used in a procedure (beakers, flasks, wash bottles, etc.) may simply be labeled with a piece of scotch tape and a permanent marker.
Vessels that will be heated can be labeled with a heat-resistant paint marker.
Chemicals that will be stored (whether produced or purchased) should be labeled with at minimum the chemical name, date of production/purchase/opening, and safety concerns. Simple labels may be used for containers that are not in the manufacturer’s packaging.
C. Chemical Storage: General Reagents:
Keep storage spaces organized, clean, and uncluttered.
All chemicals should be stored properly whenever not in use.
Store bottles away from shelf edges, and/or have lipped shelves to prevent falls from, and contain spills on, shelves.
Keep seals tight.
Keep an inventory.
Always label chemicals properly, including the dates received and opened.
Bees may opt to cover glass containers in clear packing tape to reduce mess if a bottle is broken.
Store flammable and combustible liquids in a flammable cabinet. An old fridge is a good method of storage for bees. Never store food or drink in the same refrigerator.
Do not store liquids above solids.
Always store corrosive chemicals on spill trays.
Store odoriferous and toxic chemicals in ventilated cabinets.
Keep heavy containers on bottom shelves, and don’t store in high places or on the floor unless properly protected.
Acetone with- bromine, chlorine, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, or hydrogen peroxide (do not use acetone to clean receptacles that have had these chemicals in them!).
Iodine with- acetylene, ammonia, or hydrogen.
Water- keep all other chemicals away from water unless in solution. Especially avoid hydration of acetyl chloride, alkaline and alkaline earth metals, barium peroxide, carbides, chromic acid, phosphorus oxychloride, phosphorus pentachloride, phosphorous pentoxide, sulfuric acid, or sulfur trioxide.
Nitric Acid with- acetone, acetic acid, alcohol, chromic acid, aniline, hydrocyanic acid, hydrogen sulfide, or any flammable substances (keep this in mind when cleaning with nitric acid).
Hydrogen Peroxide with- copper, chromium, iron, most metals or salts of metals, alcohols, acetone, organic materials, aniline, nitromethane, flammable liquids, ammonia, or oxidizing agents.
Zinc and sulfur.
Mercury with- acetylene, fulminic acid, or ammonia.
Compressed Gasses:
Keep cylinders of compressed gasses secured
Keep appropriate breathing apparati in the vicinity, but not immediately near the compressed gases in case of emergency.
Keep the valve cap secured unless in use or connected to a line.
Do not store flammable gases near oxidizers or combustible materials.
Do not allow a cylinder to empty completely.
Dispose of cylinders after ten years, or three in the case of corrosive and toxic chemicals.
Note: avoid working with gases when possible. Gas chemistry has many complications, is often unsafe, and produces poor yields and poor quality products. Bulk Storage Containers:
Carboys: These are great for general purpose, and storage of chemicals no longer in their original container. However, they are not ideal for transport or use with acids, caustics, flammable liquids, or corrosive substances.
Safety Cans: have spring loaded lids and flame arresters. They are good for fluids in volumes less than five gallons, are safe for transporting most chemicals, and can be had for around $80. Recommended Safety Can.
Drums: for bulk chemicals. They may weigh in excess of 800 lb (364 kg), and should only be moved with a drum dolly, not rolled or dragged. Drums may be made of steel or high-strength plastics.
D. Bonding and Grounding: “Class I Liquids should not be run or dispensed into a container unless the nozzle and container are electrically interconnected.” (OSHA 29 CFR 1910.106(e)(6)(ii), ATEX directive, and NFPA UFC Div. VIII, Sec. 79.803a). An ungrounded static voltage (including from friction) may cause combustion of some fluids. Metal containers must be connected via a common grounding wire made of solid or braided wire, or welded connections, before fluid is poured between them. E. Peroxide-Forming Chemicals: A variety of common chemicals spontaneously form peroxide compounds under ordinary storage conditions due to reaction with oxygen. Peroxides are extraordinarily explosive, and can often be ignited by contact with heat, friction (incl. simply turning the cap of the container), and mechanical shock (incl. shaking, bumping, or dropping). Three classes of peroxide-forming chemicals are of particular interest, and are organized by the precautions that should be taken with unopened and opened containers. Class A Peroxide Formers: the most hazardous class. Unopened: discard or test for peroxides after 12 months or at manufacturer’s expiration date (whichever comes first). Opened: Test for peroxides quarterly. Common class A peroxide formers include: Butadiene (liquid monomer) Isopropyl ether Sodium amide (sodamide) Chloroprene (liquid monomer) Potassium amide Tetrafluoroethylene (liquid monomer) Divinyl acetylene Potassium metal Vinylidene chloride Class B Peroxide Formers: Unopened: discard or test for peroxides after 12 months or at manufacturer’s expiration date (whichever comes first). Opened: test for peroxide formation every 6 months. *Always test this class immediately before any distillation. Common Class B Peroxide Formers include: Acetal Cumene Diacetylene Methylacetylene 1-Phenylethanol Acetaldehyde Cyclohexanol Diethyl ether Methylcyclopentane 2-Phenylethanol Benzyl alcohol 2-Cychlohexen-1-ol Dioxanes MIBK 2-Propanol Benzaldehyde Cyclohexene Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether (glyme) 2-Pentanol Tetrahydrofuran 2-Butanol Decahydronaphthalene Furan 4-Penten-1-ol Class C Peroxide Formers: Same precautions as Class B. Include: Acrylic acid Chloroprene Styrene Vinyl acetylene Vinyladiene chloride Acrylonitirile Chlorotrifluoroethylene Tetrafluoroethylene Vinyl chloride Butadiene Methyl methacrylate Vinyl acetate Vinyl pyridine *Without opening, immediately dispose of any peroxide-forming chemical with any crystalline formation. Be careful not to open, shake, heat, or drop. Testing Peroxide-Forming Chemicals: Peroxide test strips can be bought cheaply online, or various in-lab tests can be performed: One method is to combine the fluid with an equal volume (1-3mL) of acetic acid (AcOH). To this a few drops of a 5% KI solution are added, and a color change indicates the presence of peroxides. Another method adds a small amount of the fluid to be tested (~0.5mL) to ~1mL 10% KI solution and ~0.5mL dilute HCL. To this a few drops of starch indicator are added, and the presence of blue/blue-black color within a minute indicates the presence of peroxides. Fluids with a LOW (<30ppm) concentration of peroxides can often be deperoxidated via filtration through activated alumina, distillation (not for THF!), evaporation, or chromatography. V. Labware Safety A. Glassware:
Always inspect glassware for cracks, chips, or fractures before use. Discard any glassware that is even slightly damaged.
Use glassware for its intended purpose! Heat fluids in a round-bottom boiling flask whenever possible.
Store on a shelf away from the edge. Round-bottomed flasks should be set on cork or tin holders, or padded into a drawer.
Joint grease reduces stuck joints, and therefore breakage.
Always carry glassware with two hands. Do not hold beakers by their sides, or flasks by the neck.
Clean glassware after any procedure, and before as necessary.
B. Support:
Use the fewest amount of clamps such that all structures are firmly held.
Support all flasks with rings.
Assemble apparati from bottom up.
Assemble such that liquid always passes through the male joint. Never allow fluid to pass into the joint. This prevents both leaks and lubricant contamination.
Do not over tighten clamps. Clamps should be tightened the minimum amount that provides a secure frame.
C. Tubing:
Cut glass tubing by placing a single slit in the desired position, then breaking by pulling the edges toward you and pushing the joint out.
Bend glass tubing by heating until red, and pulling ends toward self to form desired angle.
Use lubricant to insert tubing into stoppers, and wear hand protection during assembly.
DO NOT force glass together or into anything. Use minimal pressure, lubricant, and a gentle twisting motion if necessary.
D. Heating:
Heating mantles and hot plates are preferred over bunsen burners in almost all situations. Never unnecessarily introduce a flame to your lab environment.
Avoid rapid temperature changes whenever possible. Borosilicate glass is made for more rapid temperature changes. Heat and cool glass slowly. Do not set hot glass on a cold tabletop or under cold water.
Never look into the mouth of a receptacle that is being heated, or point it towards the self or others.
Use heat resistant gloves and/or tongs to handle hot receptacles or products.
Cover oil baths so they don’t splatter, or use a sand bath in its stead.
Always use boiling chips for reflux and distillation!
E. Electricity:
Be aware of electrical hazards. Check wires periodically, and keep the lab environment dry and clean.
Use power strips to protect equipment.
VI. Reaction Safety A. Fume Hoods: Fume hoods are absolutely essential whenever flammability, toxicity, or accidental intoxication is a concern. That includes all organic solvents, concentrated acids, and concentrated ammonia, as well as any materials that are both volatile and toxic, corrosive, reactive, or intoxicating. The face velocity of a fume hood should be around 100 ft/min or 0.5 m/s. Keep these guidelines in mind when using a fume hood:
Regularly check that air flow is not blocked.
Keep the sash open as little as possible to promote air flow.
Keep all chemicals and glassware at least 6 inches away from the edge of the workspace.
Air should flow from the fume hood directly to the outdoors.
Unfortunately, bees often find that fume hoods are the most difficult apparatus to obtain and install in a private laboratory. Nonetheless, it is imperative that each lab includes one. This is especially important for bees, who often work in confined spaces that can quickly and easily fill with toxic, flammable, or intoxicating vapors. A proper fume hood may cost several thousand dollars. Fortunately, there are many online guides and videos that teach how to construct one for as little as a few hundred dollars. The builder must meticulously ensure that air flow is adequate and constant. The outtake must be properly filtered, and there must not be any leaks through which air can flow other than the space under the sash and the outtake. B. Additional Tips:
Avoid gas chemistry whenever possible. It is often dangerous, difficult, and produces poor quality products and low yields.
Avoid pressurized systems whenever possible. They also present special risks.
After working with potentially pyrophoric agents that may not interact well with water or oxygen, flush apparati with pressurized inert gas before cleaning.
Do not clean bromine contaminated glassware with acetone, which forms bromoacetone, a tear gas.
Always use deionized water- tap water contains interruptive ions such as Mg2+, Fe2+, Fe3+, and Ca2+, as well as dissolved gasses.
VII. Emergency Procedures A. Emergency Shower and Eyewash Stations: If any hazardous chemical comes in contact with the body or eyes, the emergency shower or eye-wash station should be utilized immediately, with continued application for at least 15 minutes. The eyes should be held open for this entire process. Quality eye-wash stations can be purchased online for between 50 and several hundred US dollars. Bees who don’t have one installed are advised to purchase one. Some models can be attached directly to a sink faucet. An alternative, less effective, and minimal necessary precaution is bottled, eye-safe saline solution such as EyeSaline and Physician’s Care Eyewash Station, which can be purchased online for around $10 for a single bottle, and $30+ for kits. At least two bottles should be kept on hand in case both eyes are contaminated. Application of bottled solution to both eyes may require a partner, because the eyes must be held open to maximize effectiveness. For this, and other reasons (speed, difficulty/time of opening bottles vs. pushing a button, and water pressure) an actual eyewash station is in all ways preferred. Faucet-mounted eyewash stations such as the following are very affordable (US $59.95). Recommended Eyewash Station. Bees may not, however, have the space to install a safety shower. The home shower may be used in its stead; however, precaution must be taken to ensure it is easily accessible. The chemist should alert all others in the home/facility that they are working, and require that the door to the shower, and the path to it, be open at all times in case of emergency. B. Fire extinguishers:
Avoid working with flames whenever possible, especially when working with flammable solvents. Hot plates or heating mantles are preferable in almost all situations.
There are four classes of fires:
Class A- ordinary combustibles- wood, cloth, paper- can be extinguished with water, or general fire extinguishers. Class B- organic solvents, flammable liquids- chemical foam extinguishers (also work for class A and C). Class C- electrical equipment- chemical foam extinguishers. Class D- combustible metals such as aluminum, titanium, magnesium, lithium, zirconium, sodium, and potassium.
A dry chemical ABC extinguisher is usually adequate.
If you plan to work with combustible metals (not recommended unless necessary), make sure to have a class D dry chemical fire extinguisher. Other methods or classes of extinguishers will not put out a combustible metal fire. Note that class D fire extinguishers will not work for class A, B, or C fires.
Do not use a CO2 extinguisher- if it has to be used on the person it can cause frostbite and inhibit breathing.
C. Fire blankets: Used for small fires, or to put out a person who has caught fire (laying on ground, standing may cause the fire to move up the body to the head due to a chimney effect). D. Spills: Keep some vinegar or baking soda around to neutralize bases and acids, respectively. After acids and bases are neutralized, the chemical can be mopped up and placed in waste disposal. VIII. Post-Procedure Protocols A. Personal Hygiene: Wash hands, face, and all exposed skin after PPE has been removed to avoid recontamination by touching dirty clothes. Shower and change clothes once possible. B. Facility Hygiene: Clean all surfaces, glassware, and equipment before leaving the lab. Keep laboratory items in the lab, and personal items out of it. Chemicals may be transferred into the home through those items. Additionally, foreign objects have the potential to contaminate sterile laboratory environments. C. Waste Disposal: Waste disposal is one of the most important aspects of safety, image management, public relations, avoidance of fines or criminal charges, and environmental preservation.
Create a waste disposal plan before beginning a procedure or ordering a chemical.
Consult the SDS for all chemicals, individually or in a mixture.
Clearly label all containers, including waste.
Rinse out empty containers with an inert solvent several times before disposal.
Collect aqueous waste separately from organic solvent waste, and place solid waste in a labeled container for disposal. Flammable and toxic waste should be stored in a closed waste container in the fume hood until proper disposal is possible.
Non-hazardous waste may be disposed of in a landfill.
The Article “Management of Waste” found here states, “The best strategy for managing laboratory waste aims to maximize safety and minimize environmental impact, and considers these objectives from the time of purchase.” The article describes four tiers of waste management:
Pollution prevention and source reduction (green chemistry).
Reuse and redistribution of unwanted/surplus material (purchasing only what is needed).
Treatment, reclamation, and recycling of materials within the waste.
Disposal through incineration, treatment, or land burial. Additionally, use of solvent as fuel, or a fuel blender (the least desirable tier).
I hope this safety plan can save a few bees. I know there is a lot of information, but chemical safety is extremely important and multifaceted. Best of luck with your endeavors. Stay safe out there!
[https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/periodic-table/png/Periodic_Table_of_Elements_w_Chemical_Group_Block_PubChem.png ] or [https://ptable.com/#Properties ] Electrochemical reactions are those reactions that have the potential to be separated into two half-reactions connected by a flow of electrons and an ion bridge, or in other words can be used in batteries to generate electrical current. In dealing with these reactions, we have to move past the obsolete but lingering concept of reduction-oxidation chemistry and the countless hours of labor that have been wasted on it. So, the modern understanding of chemical reactions is that all reactions involve the movement of electrons between molecular orbitals. In some rare cases, atomic orbitals can also be involved, but for the most part chemical reactions are a rearrangement of molecular orbitals with consequent adjustments to the distribution of electron probability density. However, this is difficult or impossible to detect directly, so previous generations of experimenters did not know not to pursue the electron movements they were able to detect as some extraordinary occurrence. I will also note that our understanding of both mental health and occupational safety has advanced remarkably, to the point where today’s chemists do not have to sit around in dark rooms breathing solvent fumes all day and thinking violent thoughts. In any case, I will bring up the concept of oxidation numbers as a measure of how many electrons each atom “owns” in a molecule. Defining this exactly is difficult due to the tendency of electron probability density to mostly go wherever in the volume of the orbital it has filled into is the most energetically favorable, but some cases are quite clear. With the chloride ion (Cl-), the chlorine atom obviously has one extra electron around its nucleus relative to the number of protons in the nucleus, resulting in an oxidation number of -1 (and so on with the rest of the halogens). Similarly, metallic elements in metallic form have equal numbers of protons and electrons, resulting in an oxidation number of 0, the sodium cation (Na+) has a +1 oxidation number, the magnesium cation (Mg2+) has a +2 oxidation number, and so on. Once we get into organic molecules with bond polarization, we need to be thinking in terms of decimals during rigorous computer modeling or measurement and in terms of electronegativities if we are trying to make a rough prediction of reactivity. Apart from that, changes in the electron density around a nucleus are the same as changes in the oxidation state and oxidation number, and electrochemistry is essentially the only reason why I am even mentioning this. So, to have a flow of electrons, we need to have the half-reaction occurring at one electrode in the battery producing electrons and the other half-reaction consuming electrons. This is distinct from the alternating current generated by spinning wire coils in a magnetic field, and in the case of alternating current electrons will be driven some distance in one direction, come to an instantaneous stop, reverse directions, and be driven back to the starting position. Alternating current is fully capable of transmitting energy between sources and loads, but does not require or (hopefully) involve any chemistry occurring. In most AC electrical power systems built by humans, the frequency of the sinusoidal changes in direction is 50 or 60 cycles per second. Moving back to the direct current generated by the chemical reactions in batteries, the only way to reverse the direction of the electron flow is to supply an external input of energy. This is because the starting materials of the complete reaction (combination of both half-reactions) need to be at a much higher energy state than the products to allow the complete battery system to store a useful amount of energy, ruling out the possibility of generating alternating current directly from batteries. [AC can be approximated with semiconductor switches in an inverter, but this is an electrical engineering problem that happens energetically downstream of the battery. AC can also be rectified to DC.] Rechargeable batteries are capable of being run in the reverse direction under an external energy source during recharging, but this is not relevant to producing an electrical current. Getting back on track, if we move electrons from one side of a battery to the other we are also obviously moving negative charge. If nothing is done about this, the buildup of charge imbalance will quickly remove the energy benefit of the reaction, so an ion bridge between what could otherwise be two separate containers connected with a wire only is added to allow the movement of positively charged cations in the same direction as the electrons. The details of ion movement will depend on the half reactions in question, but as the reaction runs the starting materials will always be depleted to form products, with some of the energy released tapped off to do useful work outside the boundaries of the battery cell. Because of the quantization of electrons, it is not possible to have non-integer numbers of electrons present around a nucleus even if the distribution of electron probability density is skewed towards the more electronegative atoms in the molecule. As a result, we always need to be transferring whole electrons when an electron transfer occurs, and this is distinct from the electron density donation and withdrawal that takes place within or between molecules. With batteries, this is why most of the half-reactions will tend to rely on metals, which are large enough atoms that electrons can easily be shed or gained back. At the same time, “easily” going through reactions tends to be at odds with maximizing the energy density of the battery, which is why lithium-ion batteries can be more energetically dense than something like nickel-cadmium. With lithium, the neutral 3-electron state of the lone atom is quite high in energy, and giving up one electron to form Li+ results in the formation of a filled shell/noble gas electron configuration. This means that on a per-electron basis lithium energy densities will be difficult to exceed, and since lithium is element 3 there won’t be much excess mass in the lithium nuclei. On the other hand and with my current knowledge of battery chemistry, I’m not really seeing much of a basis for improvement, although it is important to note that actual compounds used in lithium-ion batteries are lithium cobalt oxide (LiCoO2), lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), lithium manganese oxide (LiMn2O4), etc so the mass of the lithium ion is not a particularly significant driver of the overall battery mass. The per-electron energy release will however still be a key determinant of the performance of the battery. Let’s now be a bit more rigorous in describing battery types. The first type of battery to be invented was the galvanic cell, which uses two beakers of usually aqueous compounds connected by what literally looks like a bridge to allow the ions to balance and with electrodes to allow the withdrawal and donation of the flow of electrons to the separate half-reactions. Galvanic cells are bulky, heavy, and inefficient, but allowed early investigations into electrochemistry to proceed. They were superseded by dry cells, which do not require large quantities of water and tend to have the electrolyte in a paste form separated by a paper or cardboard ion bridge and all coiled together in one enclosure. Most modern batteries are of the dry cell type, although early dry cell batteries could not be recharged and the high-current lead-acid batteries used to start internal combustion engines are of the wet cell type, which is distinct from a galvanic cell in only having one enclosure but also having water. As is hopefully apparent, there are many ways in which to package chemical compounds so that they can react on either end of a wire to produce an electric current, and the details both depend on the context and tend to be closely held by the companies that manufacture batteries. The Nernst equation describes how the voltage of a half-reaction in a galvanic cell depends on the concentrations of the species necessary to allow the half-reaction to proceed, and in addition to that there is a whole series of measurements of voltage against a standard (hydrogen?) reference electrode. As taught in general chemistry, this has only a very general relation to how batteries work in the modern world, so I’m not going to waste any more time on that. Before moving away from batteries, most people are going to be familiar with how rechargeable batteries work. It should be noted that the half-reactions require the physical movement of compounds to function, and that as battery cycles build up the materials in the battery start to degrade, decreasing the energy capacity, peak current potential, etc. The most commonly encountered non-rechargeable batteries tend to use alkaline earth materials, which means that the interior contents of the battery are not nearly as hazardous to human health and the environment than the heavy metals in some rechargeable batteries. However, the single-use aspect and the consequent lack of amortization of the manufacturing costs over a large number of battery charge-discharge cycles is detrimental to the environment, and if you recycle your rechargeable batteries there is no real reason to use disposable batteries in most applications. With batteries out of the way, the last topic I am supposed to be covering in this section (which is the last in general chemistry) is electrolysis. The root words mean “electricity, splitting with” or splitting with electricity, and the most prominent example of electrolysis is splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen gases. However, electricity can be used to invest energy into any suitable reaction that is not otherwise spontaneous, and electrolysis is extensively used in the mining industry to separate metals from ores as well as electroplating of metals and other uses. Focusing on the electrolysis of water, this is a decent opportunity to revisit the concept of oxidation states. In the previous post, I went into some detail about how the hydrogen atoms on a water molecule have electron density withdrawn by the adjacent and more electronegative oxygen nucleus, resulting in a more stable molecule. As a result, an external source of energy is required to drive the atoms back apart to a state where they can then form dihydrogen (H2) and dioxygen (O2). In both of these compounds, two identical (disregarding isotopes, which do not materially affect chemical behavior in most circumstances) atoms are bonded together, so there is no electronegativity difference and no electron donation or withdrawal. As can be seen, no complete electrons are moved during this reaction, but the net change in electron distribution is sufficient to allow a direct current of electrons being driven out of one electrode and into another to supply enough energy to force the formation of the gases from liquid water. This post is already running long, so I will link the mechanism instead of attempting an explanation (http://www.digipac.ca/chemical/mtom/contents/chapter3/electrolysis.htm ). I will note that in reality two equivalents of water and going to be electrolyzed to form two equivalents of dihydrogen and one equivalent of dioxygen (versus the one, one, ½ in the example). Looking at the reverse reaction, hydrogen and oxygen gas can be combined together to form water while releasing heat. The simplest way for this to occur is through combustion (as in hydrolox rocket engines), but separating the half-reactions allows some of the released energy to be captured as a flow of electrons that can then be harnessed to do work elsewhere. In other words, a fuel cell. The difference between a fuel cell and a battery is that a battery is a sealed or mostly sealed unit, while a fuel cell requires a continuous flow of starting materials into the reaction volume and continuous removal of products. In both cases the result is a flow of (DC) electricity, some waste heat, and chemical changes in the materials driving the reactions forward.
With thousands of vegan handbags and brands on the market, it can be hard to decide which one is best for you. But, we're here to help and whether you're looking for an affordable vegan handbag, a luxury bag, or a faux leather tote, we've got you covered. In this article, I'll introduce you to the best vegan handbag brands of 2020-2021 Then, I'll share with you the top bags (most wanted) from their fabulous collections. Also, to make it easier for you, I've crowned three brands as winners of three vegan handbag categories: Best OVERALL Vegan Handbags Best BUDGET Vegan HandBags Best DESIGNER Vegan HandBags I have curated the best vegan handbag brands for spring, summer, winter, for the gym, beach, work, and even dinner date. Finally, all handbags, purses, and totes on this list are vegan-friendly, made from cruelty-free or organic materials such as apple leather, pineapple leaves, mushroom, and cork.
Vegan Handbags - Intro
Traditional leather handbags – the kind made from animals – have always been a staple of the fashion world. But the world is changing as a variety of new and established brands have begun producing vegan leather or faux leather bags. Above all, the makers of vegan handbags are innovators at the core. Creators of materials made from recycled plastic bottles, fishing nets, fruit skins, mushrooms, cactuses, and tree bark these designers create vegan bags that are sturdy, sustainable, and above all, stylish. Not too long ago, vegan bags were seen as ‘crunchy’, tacky and polluting. Nowadays, they’re just as chic as anything produced by the most exclusive ‘designer’ brands. And what’s more, these bags act as a badge of honor as finally, you can "wear your ethics on your sleeve"! And it turns out, what's right for the animals and the planet is also good for your pocket. In this article, you'll find vegan bags or alternative leather options at a better price than their animal leather counterparts. You can also reduce your impact further by shopping for a second-hand luxury vegan handbag at one of our favorite online thrift stores here. We've identified ten vegan and faux leather handbag (and purses) brands and their unique products, proudly cruelty-free.
What Is Vegan Leather?
Vegan leather is a catch-all term for materials that replace animal leather and are cruelty-free. Vegan leather is made from various materials such as wood, cork, rubber, barkcloth, apple, pineapple, and glazed cotton. Moreover, we see more eco-friendly alternative options becoming available as the vegan fashion market grows and evolves. However, two of the most common types of vegan leather are produced with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU). This is where the term "vegan leather" becomes a bit problematic. Sure, PVC and PU are not animal products. That's the good part. But, the bad part is that PVC is manufactured with toxic chemicals that cannot be recycled. So we recommend that you avoid any handbags made with PVC.
"There have been concerns over the last few years about PVC because of production challenges and because they release dioxins, potentially hazardous chemicals if burnt," said Andrew Dent, the Vice President of Library and Research Materials at Material ConneXion.
A better synthetic alternative, while not perfect, is PU, which is less environmentally harmful and can be recycled. Finally, vegan leather bags are getting the recognition they deserve in the world of fashion. Compared to animal leather bags - which required the sacrifice of an animal to produce - vegan leather bags are cruelty-free alternatives that keep you looking good while doing good. Moreover, thanks to recent material developments, there are more environmentally-friendly vegan leather alternatives, such as mushroom leather, and kelp leather now than ever before. Without further ado...these the top 26 best vegan handbags brands, for every budget, now in 2021.
1. Demi Black Vegan Winged Tote Bag by LaBante London
📷 BRAND | LaBante LondonMADEIN | London, UKSTYLE | ToteMATERIALS | Recycled PETBEST FOR | All occasionPRICE | $180 labante.co.uk Based in London, LaBante is a British designer label founded in 2009, known for its excellent vegan leather handbags. The brand uses PETA-approved vegan leather, PVC-free, and recycled materials, without any toxic chemicals. LaBante London's offering includes faux leather clutches, crossbodies, vegan backpacks, and vegan leather tote bags in quilted textures and natural colors, making them easy to incorporate into your everyday wardrobe. Usually, the bags' inners are made from polyester rescued from discarded plastic bottles. On the other hand, the outers are made with over 50 percent vegetable oil, a renewable natural source. The brand's design and production team is made up of 99 percent women and the bags are manufactured in a SEDEX Certified factory. Moreover, every year, LaBante London donates around 10 percent of its profits to several charities. The stunning Black Demi bag from LaBante London is a designer winged tote bag featuring gold hardware plaques on the base and the LaBante logo for an elegant look. The bag fits a 13-inch laptop and it comes with two zipper compartments. It also features an inner side zip pocket, as well as two open pockets for keys and phones. This black tote handbag is a simple but perfectly sized bag for your day or evening out. Comes with a long detachable & adjustable shoulder strap.
2. Monica Pencil Clutch by Ahimsa Collective
📷 BRAND | Ahimsa CollectiveMADE IN | AustraliaSTYLE | Clutch - HandbagMATERIALS | Cactus Leather (Desserto)BEST FOR | WeekendsPRICE | $172 wardrobeoftomorrow.com As a perfect example that luxury, animal love, and sustainability can co-exist, Ahimsa Collective is on a mission to end fast fashion. The label is providing high-end sustainable alternatives to animal leather and ‘pleather’ goods. Formed from the ‘a’ meaning ‘without’ and ‘himsa’ meaning ‘harm’, Ahimsa Collective signifies “respect for all living beings and avoidance of harm towards others". Ethical, social, and environmental responsibility are upheld at every stage of the Ahimsa Collective. Ahimsa is using some of the most innovative materials in its vegan handbags, combined with excellent design and artistic flair. The label’s intention is to offer vegan leather bags that are not only environmentally friendly but environmentally beneficial as well. To do this, Ahimsa Collective creates handbags out of existing resources, would-be-waste, and innovative plant-based textiles. Moreover, each Ahimsa bag component has an ‘End Of Life’ program. This extends from the closed-loop system of recycled water bottles that line the bags, to the raw material of the FSC Certified washable paper and piñatex (pineapple leather) as the main material in the brand's bags. The Monica Pencil clutch is hand-crafted using Desserto cactus leather-like on the outer and 100% GOTS certified organic cotton for the inner. The bag is secure and more functional than it appears. It has two roomy compartments and an additional slot for your mobile. You can pair it with your favorite denim and heeled boots. Or, just sling it over your shoulder on a night out in sleek chic style.
3. Chocolate Thoroughbred Bag by Jill Milan
📷 BRAND | Jill MilanMADE IN | Italy STYLE | HandbagMATERIALS | Italian gold-coated canvas and black faux leatherBEST FOR | Work or uniPRICE | $700 wardrobeoftomorrow.com The co-founder of Jill Milan, Jill Fraser spent years searching for a luxury bag that was not made of animal leather. Eventually, she partnered with Milan Lazich and launched Jill Milan in 2010, aiming to address a gap she perceived in the market. All Jill Milan creations are vegan and are crafted by artisans in Italy. Everything is done by hand and the quality is magnificent. Jill Milan bags are very popular with celebrities and have been spotted on the red carpet, at the Oscars and movie premiers. Celebrities such as Anne Hathaway, Kerry Washington, and Eva Longoria are all big fans of the brand. The Thoroughbred Bag is spacious enough for an overnight trip or ideal for daily use. It is adorned with a handmade horse head and brass crafted by an Italian artisan. The bag is both elegant and timeless, made in limited quantities. It is very practical and yet stylish, suitable for work or leisure. The interior is designed to easily accommodate your tablet computing device and mobile phone.
4. Marcelline Tote by Moenn
📷 BRAND | MoennMADE IN | Asia, ChinaSTYLE | Large Handbag - Tote bagMATERIALS | Premium Vegan LeatherBEST FOR | TravellingPRICE | $109 $89 shopmoenn.com Moenn is known for its minimalist, classic designs that reflect a deep belief in sustainable innovation. But, what does that mean? To Moenn sustainable innovation means using superior non-animal skin materials, following ethical labor practices, and delivering the highest quality. The brand regularly researches and explores innovative new materials and has committed to using linings made from recycled plastic bottles. Marcelline Totem bag comes in either caramel or black and is made from premium vegan leather. It is large and accommodating and it closes with a magnetic Snap.
5. Falabella Mini Tote by Stella McCartney📷
BRAND | Stella McCartneyMADE IN | ItalySTYLE | Mini Tote - HandbagMATERIALS | 100% Polyester, lining 100% ECONYL® recycled nylonBEST FOR | Night outsPRICE | $865 wardrobeoftomorrow.com Stella McCartney needs no introduction in the world of sustainable fashion. The British fashion designer is known for her luxury lines of vegan, cruelty-free bags. Stella uses vegetarian leather, ultra-suede, and recycled polyester. Of all the brands on this list, Stella McCartney takes the cake when it comes to blending luxury with sustainability. The brand's mission statement puts ethics and sustainable practices at the center, with the aim of creating a world that treats people, the planet, and animals equally. That's why the company avoids fur and uses recycled materials, to reduce its environmental impact. Stella McCartney's vegan alternatives retain patterns that resemble rare animal leather or snakeskin still to give the products that 'designer fee'. Stella McCartney is a lifelong vegetarian so it’s no surprise that she doesn’t feature any leather or fur in her collections. Stella’s commitment to sustainability is evident in all her collections and is part of her brand’s ethos of being a responsible, honest, and modern company. If you are looking for high-quality, luxury vegan products then Stella McCartney may be the perfect fit for you! If you’re wondering whether any designer bags are vegan then Stella is the way to go! Our favorite Stella McCartney vegan handbag is the label's Mini Tote signature bag. Part of the Falabella family, this light-weight structured mini bag features the signature diamond cut chain. Made in Italy from the brand's proprietary vegan leather-like material.
6. Rotunda Vegan Handbag by Gunas
📷 BRAND | GunasMADE IN | South KoreaSTYLE | Handbag - Cross Body BagMATERIALS | 100% Vegan textured Eco-PolyurethaneBEST FOR | On the goPRICE | $195 wardrobeoftomorrow.com Located in Long Island City, NY, Gunas makes vegan handbags from cruelty-free and PVC-free materials. The brand also uses recycled nylons, coated canvas, cork, rubber, upcycled polyester, and proprietary ultra-leather. As one of the first fully vegan brands in the world, Gunas has been selling vegan shoes and handbags for the last ten years. The brand started in a Manhattan studio apartment, under the guidance of Sugandh Agrawal, who wanted to create a fashion brand centered around activism. Rather than using leather, Sugandh decided to use canvas, nylons, upcycled materials, and other sustainable materials. Nowadays, Gunas offers a wide range of handbags, purses, clutches, totes, and shoulder bags, with dozens of five-star reviews. ‘Rotunda’ bag is named after the famous Capitol in Washington, the United States, Guggenheim museum, and the Pantheon in Rome. All of these buildings are round domed structures and the type of architecture represents the “authority of nature and power of reason”. Rotunda bag is the Gunas’ symbol of important issues of our times such as women’s rights, equality for all, and animal rights.
7. Hamilton Satchel Micro by Angela Roi
📷 BRAND | Angela RoiMADE IN | Asia, KoreaSTYLE | Mini Handbag - Mini Cross Body BagMATERIALS | Vegan Leather (EPUL) BEST FOR | All occasionPRICE | $235 angelaroi.com Angela Roi is a vegan and cruelty-free label from New York that uses its own blend of polyurethane 'leather'. Creation of two co-founders (Angela and Roi, obviously) the brand wants to bring virtue to an otherwise competitive and wasteful industry: fashion. The label's vegan leather and artisanal staple piece purses are ethically made from premium vegan materials while remaining affordable. If you're looking for bucket bags, totes, pouches, saddlebags, or any other staple pieces, Angela Roi has them in stunning colors and with superb design. The company also gives back by supporting charities worldwide who fought against animal mistreatment and poaching. Angela Roi makes premium vegan leather handbags that are modern classics. Their leather bags are constructed solely with non-animal materials and their artisans get paid fair wages for meaningful work in clean, comfortable factories. Hamilton Satchel Micro is a smaller, more compact version of the Hamilton Collection. The gunmetal silver hardware adds an edgy touch to the bag. After years of searching for the perfect balance between durability and softness, Angela found this new vegan micro-pebble leather, which possesses both structure and flexibility. Hamilton is the first collection Angela created with the new material. Meticulously handcrafted by skilled artisans, Hamilton Satchel Micro is complexity turned simple, cruelty-free, and sweatshop-free.
8. Adelsm Small Satchel by Matt & Nat
📷 BRAND | Matt & NatMADE IN | CanadaSTYLE | Textured Satchel HandbagMATERIALS | 100% recycled nylon liningBEST FOR | BusinessPRICE | $130 us.mattandnat.com Matt & Nat is a sustainable label that makes vegan purses from cruelty-free leather alternatives and recycled materials, out of Montreal. The brand's bags are ethically made from recycled plastic, cork, rubber, recycled nylon. As a longtime leader in the vegan goods industry, with handbags, shoes, and other vegan accessories, Matt & Nat has implemented cruelty-free and ethical practices that utilize sustainable materials whenever possible. From wallets to yoga bags and men's briefcases, Matt & Nat uses organic vegan leather to create that polished, high-end look. We love that their company motto is “live beautifully”, as an acknowledgment of the collective responsibility to nurture and celebrate the creativity, positivity, and most importantly, the humanity inside each one of us. The brand makes exceptional vegan handbags and should be a top choice for anyone looking to buy a faux leather or vegan leather bag. Adelsm handbag is a small satchel with double handles and flap closure. Comes with a detachable and adjustable crossbody strap.
9. Grandeur Shoulder Bag by Scarleton Los Angeles
📷 BRAND | Scarleton Los AngelesMADE IN | Asia, ChinaSTYLE | Handbag - Shoulder BagMATERIALS | High-quality Eco-friendly Vegan (PU) LeatherBEST FOR | On the goPRICE | $24.99 scarleton.com Scarleton makes really affordable, stylish bags. The kind where you get asked, “Is your bag vegan? It really looks good!" If you’re on a budget and are hunting for a bag or vegan backpack then Scarleton is your best bet. The Scarleton Grandeur is a great handbag and a casual accessory for work or play, spacious and economically priced. The handbag has lots of storage, enough room for your cell phone, wallet, makeup, and toiletries with plenty of space left over. If you are an active person in need of a chic and reliable handbag, Grandeur crossbody bag is the one for you.
10. The Fae Top Handle Bag by JW PEI
📷 BRAND | JW PEIMADE IN | ChinaSTYLE | Handbag - Handle BagMATERIALS | Croc-Embossed Vegan LeatherBEST FOR | Night outsPRICE | $79 $56 jwpei.com Hailing from Los Angeles, CA, JW Pei has a minimalist style somehow similar to Matt & Nat. However, uniquely to other vegan brands, JW Pei specializes in patina made vegan bags. Made from high-grade polyurethane resin and ultra-fine microfiber bundles, the patina mimics the structure of real leather. The technology isn’t new but JW Pei brings it to vegan bags, as it’s soft, beautiful, and durable. The lining of their bags is made from 100% recycled plastic bottles. Moreover, whilst over 50% of all their plastics are recycled now, the aim is to make this 100% in two years and replace all major materials with recycled materials over the next 5 years.
Best Vegan Handbags - What’s The Verdict?
All handbags in this article are best in their own category and according to what you need one for. But, most important is that all bags here are ethically made, sustainable, from vegan leather with love for animals and the planet. It is our personal responsibility to be compassionate and conscious when it comes to considering our fashion choices. Moreover, seeing these amazing vegan bags, it is clear that you do not have to compromise your style in the name of ethical and sustainable fashion. As more brands respond to consumers’ demand for eco-friendly and sustainable bags, it is your turn to contribute by choosing cruelty-free and vegan handbags, whenever possible. Time to shop guilt-free, safe in the knowledge you are helping rather than destroying the environment.
Top 21 Eco-friendly House Ideas in 2021 for Your Green Sweet Home
Today, it’s more important than ever to think about eco-friendly or “green” products and materials once you improve your home. This is often after all because we wish to try to do our part to stay the environment healthy, but it’s also because most people can’t afford to waste money on inefficient homes. Many products and materials that are eco-friendly also can help your pocketbook–think inexpensive heating and cooling bills, power bills, and affordable gas or electricity bills. Fortunately, there are many options today for people who want to form eco-friendly home improvements through effective eco-friendly house ideas for your sweet home. Here are 21 ideas to induce you get started :
Save water in your bathroom and toilet
Tons of water is wasted every year within the bathrooms of householders, so take a glance in there when you’re doing all your green remodelling. For the bathroom, consider a dual-flush model. These are designs that use two different flush settings depending upon what you wish (usually a strong mode that gives 1.6 gallons so a pleasant and delicate .8-gallon flush as well). This may greatly help reduce water consumption within the home over the course of one year. Alternatively, if you can’t afford to shop for an occasional throne then try putting a plastic bottle in your toilet tank. You’ll be able to save one or two gallons per flush. Use a bottle of plastic juice or a bottle of laundry soap to soak off the label. Fill the bottle with water, placed on the cap, and place it within the tank. Watch out that the bottle doesn’t interfere with the flushing mechanism. I am sure these eco-friendly house ideas going to create a lot of difference to your green initiatives.
2. Use organic paint
Paint goes a protracted way in adding curb appeal to the surface of a house or cheering up drab spaces inside. It’s also a simple and comparatively inexpensive home improvement that may make a large difference. After you are selecting paint, continue only brands that use non-VOC or non-volatile organic chemicals. Typical paint has high levels of VOCs, which are neither eco-friendly nor especially safe. You will have to seek brands and special lines that provide low and reduced VOC levels, but they’re becoming more readily available. Just ask at the paint department of the house improvement store out of the eco-friendly house ideas you have. Someone should be educated enough to assist you to discover eco-friendly paint which will fit your needs.
3. Make your floor eco-friendly
Flooring is one in all the primary things people think about once they remodel, and there are plenty of ways to induce what you would like and still be eco-friendly. For people who are trying to find a natural kind of material then cork flooring could be a great choice to explore. It’s durable, comfortable to run on, and also boasts the utilization of no toxic adhesives which will harm the environment. Plus, cork may be a natural material, so it doesn’t off-gas like many other forms of flooring. Cork flooring is about as green because it gets. Harvesting doesn’t damage trees, and extremely little goes to waste. There’s a good range of colours and styles for cork floor tiles, showing that the fabric isn’t meant only for walls and bulletin boards anymore. Floors will be made with bamboo moreover. There’s absolute confidence that bamboo may be a renewable resource- it’s a grass and grows very quickly. Where oak takes 120 years to grow to maturity, bamboo will be harvested in three years.
4. Reuse & refinish your wooden floors
Your floors might not actually need to get replaced in any respect. Reusing and refinishing already existing materials may be a hallmark of the green movement. So, out of your eco-friendly house ideas, you simply can look at is refinishing the floors that you just currently have. This is often especially plausible if you’ve got wood flooring underneath the other form of the floor in your home. While it should take some work to create them shine again, it’s well worth the effort.
5. Use recycled carpet tiles
Carpets are often eco-friendly too. Sometimes it’s hard to beat the heat and softness of carpets, but if you wish to be green and healthy. Carpeting is well known for harbouring dust mites, pet dander, and mildew, all of which are hard to urge out even with steam cleaning. Consider carpet tiles that are typically created from recyclable materials and are very easy to put in also as clean. This makes them an attractive choice also as a straightforward option for carpet across a complete room. You’ll even get outdoor carpet tiles to spruce up balconies or rooftop decks.
6. Avoid using carpet padding
Please note that carpet padding isn’t always required if you are going with carpets. Skip the carpet padding if possible. This is often usually additional material that’s used when using traditional carpet and involves additional labour, materials, and chemicals and also makes it much harder to stay the carpet clean without the utilization of harsh chemicals. It isn’t recommended to reuse carpet padding, since previously used products may have soils, stains, or maybe mould/mildew growth you’re not awake to.
7. Use Organic bedding or Eco-friendly mattresses
In the bedroom seek for organic bedding. Many off-the-shelf bedding products are treated with a chemical called formaldehyde, which is meant to create the soft, but this can be an enormous toxic chemical and extremely hazardous to the environment. Similarly to your own personal health, hunt for organic bedding to avoid the hazards to your health. As for the bed itself, consider eco-friendly mattresses out of your eco-friendly house ideas. There are several companies that have them available; most are typically made of a fabric called natural latex rubber, which is friendly to the environment. Also, these mattresses pose fewer problems when it’s time to switch them.
8.Consider energy saving solar power
Think alternative energy whenever possible. This should come first in your mind while thinking about eco-friendly house ideas. This may prevent lots of cash within the future. As an example, if you are replacing your heater, consider a solar-powered model. This may reduce energy usage, lower your power bill and make sure that you usually have plenty of hot water on hand, even if the power is out in the rest of the house.
9. Reuse old furniture
If you’re not able to take the massive remodelling step, you’ll make green choices just in your home furnishings. One amongst the simplest stuff you can do is purchase used furniture. This helps to stay old furniture out of the landfills, and it reduces the demand on forests and materials to create new pieces from scratch. Also, older pieces tend to be higher quality than what’s put out today (i.e. solid hardwood rather than particleboard), so you will actually get a far better piece of furniture just by sanding and marking an old table or perhaps reupholstering old chairs and sofas. Getting used furniture could be a good way to avoid wasting some money and be eco friendly all at the identical time.
10. Think about using triple glazed window
A triple glazed window is one that comprises either three layers of glass or two layers with a low-emissivity, or Low-E, film suspended between them. Installing triple glazed windows is equivalent to upgrading the walls and ceilings from R-20 to R-40 (in some circumstances), and can minimize the relative heat loss, which increases thermal comfort inside.
11. Switch to Non-Toxic Cleaning Products
Cleaning your home will be harmful to your health. Many common household cleaners contain toxic solvents, fragrances, disinfectants, and other ingredients that may pollute the air and cause respiratory, skin, and other reactions. You’ll use cleaning products that are non-toxic like Seventh Generation, Method, or maybe Clorox contains a new borderline on the market. To keep up your school or home. you’ll also make your own cleaning supplies with simple ingredients like sodium hydrogen carbonate, soap, and vinegar, they’re cheap and straightforward, and that they really work.
12. Light Bulbs
Save energy by replacing your standard incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs, which lasts about ten times longer and use about one to two-thirds less energy.
13. Air conditioners
You can install the comfortmaker HVAC system R410A which contains a non-ozone depleting gas.
14. Switch to Recycled toilet tissue and Paper Towels
Kids are always spilling juice, but did you recognize that if every household within the U.S. replaced only one roll of 180 sheet virgin fibre paper towels with 100-per cent recycled paper towels, we could save 1.4 million trees, 3,7 million cubic feet of landfill space, and 526 million gallons of water, and forestall 89,400 pounds of pollution. Several companies make paper towels from 100 per cent recycled paper.
15. Buy Organic Foods
Buy food that is organic, locally grown and seasonal for lunch or snacks. Food that travels great distances takes lots more packaging and refrigeration than food bought near where it grows.
16. Install Solar Panels
Solar panels provide your home with completely clean electricity. And in some cases, they produce enough energy so you’ll sell some back to the grid. Many people gawk at the concept of solar panels thanks to the upfront cost. However, it’s estimated that solar panels take seven to twenty years to pay themselves off. So, if you’re planning on staying in your home for an extended time, it’s well worth the investment.
17. Install a sensible Thermostat
Installing a sensible thermostat is another excellent thanks to making your home more eco-friendly. For many people, heat is their biggest source of energy consumption, especially during the long winter months, when many folks leave the warmth on longer than necessary. The best thanks to combating this sort of energy consumption are to put in a wise thermostat. With smart thermostats, you’ll be able to program the warmth to only be turned on at certain times of the day. For instance, the majority set it so their heat turns down as they leave their homes for work and turns back up as they are available home.
18. Get a bin and a Compost Bin
If you own a recycle bin, you’ll be more conscious about recycling glass bottles, jars, paper, and other items that ought to be recycled. A compost bin will facilitate your get eliminate leftovers and can provide you with free fertilizer you’ll use for your plants. These days, compost bins are designed to be neat, tidy, and odour-free. Plus, they create your life easier since they assist you to reduce household waste.
19. Use Homemade Natural Cleaning Products
Natural cleaning products are even as effective because of the regular ones. But they don’t contain any harmful chemicals that are bad for the environment and your health. Granted, natural cleaning products are costlier and not all people can afford them. Nevertheless, you’ll be able to make your own cleaning products using items like vinegar, sodium bicarbonate, and juice.
20. Decorate Your House With Plants
Potted plants are effective for indoor air cleaning. Not only that, they’re also nice and that they make your home more welcoming. Sure, it takes a touch of responsibility to require care of plants but it’s surely worthwhile.
21. Insulate your home
Homes that aren’t well insulated are much harder to stay warm when it’s cold, and funky when the weather is hot. Insulating your house is one in all the most effective eco-friendly tips for your home that we will provide you with. There are much more home improvements to save lots of money and build an eco-friendly home than listed here, but these should get you started. As you go down the remodelling road, you’ll find lots of other ways you’ll be able to create a home that’s healthy to measure in and is friendly to the environment. View Poll
The Green New Deal. Would it do more harm than good? Is it just progressive hopium?
I constantly hear from progressive voices, politicians and celebrities such as David Attenborough, AOC, Bernie Sanders, Various Green Parties, Jeremy Corbyn, Noam Chomsky etc. that we need a Green New Deal. It's talked about in the US and the UK, maybe in other countries too. The idea seems simple enough. Start using tax revenues to invest heavily in renewable energy infrastructure as well as conservation initiatives, remove subisidies from fossil fuel industries, introduce carbon taxes, subsidies for electric vehicles etc. This would cause more jobs as it could work similarly to the post war boom in the US where there was so much to do and build that government jobs were abundant and well compensated. This will stimulate spending thus helping the economy etc. Here's my concerns about the Green New Deal, from a left and a realistic perspective: - Firstly, after watching Michael Moore's: Planet of the Humans, and conducting my own research, it seems more than apparent that a lot of the geographically universal technologies we have developed in regard to renewable energies such as wind and solar are not only reliant on Fossil Fuels (solar panels require Coal to make as one of their core ingredients) as well as precious minerals to be constructed, but also will need to be regularly replaced and repaired using these same materials. - These technologies, once made also are not as reliable as Fossil Fuels nor as efficient. Which begs the question of storage, i.e: Where do you keep your solar energy at night?. The obvious answer is Batteries. But Batteries are also not only made out of precious minerals, they are also very hazardous objects that are difficult to dispose of properly, if there is a massive increase of batteries required due to a reduction in our reliability of energy then more Battery related toxic waste will also occur. The same problems obviously apply to wind power. This Battery issue is also obviously easily related to electric Cars which are currently being heavily promoted. - When I talk about the need to mine precious minerals above, it isn't just the fact that obviously these minerals are not renewable, it's also that the process of mining minerals can release all sorts of harmful green house gases that are trapped beneath the Earth, such as methane plumes, as well as the fact that most mining equipment is built with and runs on Fossil Fuels. (It is also worth mentioning that there a geo-political element, we've already seen countless wars and coups conducted for Oil, imagine the humanitarian crisises and wars that would occur in the battle for the latest mineral used in batteries for example). - Some other dead-end alternatives: Molten Salt Reactors or (MSRs) uses Thorium as fuel, which is good because Thorium is comparatively abundant, but does require some considerable mining effort to access. Once accessed Thorium can be activated in an MSR to create a 'cleaner' nuclear power plant. The only problem is that MSR's are not only less efficient that Uranium based power plants but also produce a much more toxic waste and in greater abundance. Think about the plastic or garbage problems we have now, but now imagine the waste is also irradiating things in an aura around it. People claim the waste will be disposed of properly seem to misunderstand the level of waste we are talking about here and the catastrophic implications tied to a country or company not disposing of this waste properly, which would inveitably happen. Uranium power plants. This one is easy. Toxic waste (please see paragraph above), and giving every country on Earth the ability to create Nuclear WMD's is not an option. 'Bio-fuel' is the Orwellian way of saying burning wood, if we burned wood for energy at the levels we currently consume it is obvious that we would run out of Trees incredibly quickly which would have obviously catastrophic consequences. It does count as renewable though! As you can grow more trees. So be ready to see a lot more 'renewable' energy and products on the market that are actually burning through whole forests weekly under the guise of 'sustainibility'. Geo-thermal, it's good for those that live near active volcano's, so congrats to you guys, for everyone else this tech is largely useless. Coastal/Hydro-electric. Not only are Dams incredibly expensive to build they can also wreak havoc on the surrounding natural systems that have relied on the water flow for thousands, if not millions, of years. This also has a similar problem to geo-thermal in the fact that it is very much location based, if you do not have running water near you or a coast then hydro-electric isn't really an option. Coastal power is incredibly ineffcient but also very unreliable and expensive, it is not a viable option even for most islands like the UK. - Plastics: The Elephant in the room is Plastic. Oil companies will not stop drilling for Oil, and even if a company isn't looking for Oil and finds some, they are not going to not try and make money from it. In a world where Oil has now been removed from the energy sector the next most lucrative oppurtunity will be Plastics. It will all now be used to make Plastics, more Plastic than ever! But don't worry we can recycle all that Plastic right? Well, no. Less than 10% of all Plastic ever made has ever been recycled, 90%+ of all the Plastic ever made is still out there in the World, some of it you're using right now, but most of it is floating in waters, in your food, in the stomach of an animal or being buried somewhere. This is because most plastics nowadays are not worth recycling, it is not economically viable to recycle most plastic, it's either a mixed plastic that is too complex to be worth the effort or it never actually makes it to a recycling plant that can fulfill the order. Most of the plastic is either dumped, burnt or sold to a poorer country that can search it for scraps. So now imagine all of these Oil companies moving from the energy sector and making Plastic as cheap and bountiful as possible in an attempt to dump all the Oil they have before any more 'Green' legislation comes through. It would be a plastic Tsunami. But maybe the alternative is worse... A world without plastic. Look around you right now and try and count how many things are made using plastic or a plastic derivative. I know for me it's a lot of items. What does society do when the Oil is gone and Plastics become almost impossible to make? Ok, maybe you can't have a cool Funko-Pop or whatever, but what about the Hospitals? Or the food packaging plants? Suddenly it goes from an annoying inconvience to a catastophy. My point here is that we are now tied to a material that is running out quickly, the use of which damages our atmosphere, enters our water supplies, our crops, animals, food and air. The Green New Deal doesn't deal with the fact that plastics are now one of humanities most lethal addictions. Possibly because the solutions of this problem are not really clear for anyone. The Green New Deal also doesn't challenge in any way the plastic problem we already have and how we are supposed to even begin to clean it up, if that is even possible at this point. I get a lot of arguments from people when I bring up these points, there are more issues I can think of, but I think this post is long enough for now. I've already tried to keep this post as brief as possible. The problem I have is that people never really challenge what I am saying, they just say I'm wrong, that I'm a traitor to the left or something to that effect, they call me ignorant or stupid. But no one has really actually given me a counter argument on most of the points I've highlighted above, and anyone that has managed to rebuke with a relevant point has merely addressed nuances in my points as opposed to damaging their actualy substantial validitity. I even provide some solutions: - Most of what I'm saying is based on current cosumption, if we cut our consumption of energy to a raioned amount that used renewable sources then we could probably make a more sustainable loop. But when I say 'cut' I'm talking about a huge reduction, i.e. only essentials such as lights, heating and maybe a house phone. - No cars. - No Smartphones. - No non-essential Computers. -No non-essential Plastic use i.e. anything that isn't for Medical or Scientific use. - Reduced centralisation of power and politics allowing communites to grow, meaning that people will also rely much less on any transport, even public, to maintain healthy social relationships. - Local farming, encouraging self sustainibility wherever you can. - No planes except for emergencies. - No global shipping or globalisation more generally. - No profit motives. A complete economic restructure based on need and ability as opposed to want and greed. I call what I propose to these people a 'Democratic Permaculture' They say that I'm being idealistic, and I agree, I don't think any of what I just wrote above will happen, I think we'll burn out and die as an organised species. BUT surely, it's better to know that, than live the lie of the Green New Deal? Than to live in hope for something that clearly will not help find a solution but may actually make the problems we already face worse? Lastly, I believe the hidden danger of the Green New Deal will be pacification, it currently gives activists a carrot on the end of a stick to run after, and even if they catch it, they will feel that they have achieved something, they will feel an earned sense of relaxation, a sense of fulfillment. When really they haven't done anything detrimental to addressing the issue and any potential chance of mobilisation politically will be dead as the 'activists' will claim 'victory'. Thanks for coming to my TED Rant. Please, please, please tell me why I'm wrong and why I should support the Green New Deal or at least why I shouldn't think it's basically a waste of time and effort. Also, am I right in concluding that the Green New Deal is really a mechanism for 'the Western' way of life to continue whilst attempting to remove any of the moral budern and angst surrounding Ecology? In a sesnse as way for the current system to have it's cake and eat it too? Thanks again.
There are two primary types of solid waste -– municipal solid waste (trash or garbage) and industrial waste (a wide variety of non-hazardous materials resulting from the production of goods and products. Conversely, hazardous waste is waste that is dangerous or potentially harmful to our health or the environment. Hazardous wastes can be liquids, solids, gases, sludges, discarded commercial products (e.g., cleaning fluids or pesticides), or the by-products of manufacturing processes. Hazardous waste is a waste with properties that make it dangerous, or capable of having a harmful effect on human health and the environment. – RCRA program defines wastes as materials that exhibit a characteristic of hazardous waste. Ignitable; Corrosive; Reactive; Toxic – Can be liquids, solids, gases, or sludges – Can include discarded commercial products like cleaning fluids or Many types of medical waste are considered hazardous. However, the majority of medical waste (85%) is not classified as hazardous. Examples of non hazardous medical waste include plastic packaging, clean glass and plastic, paper and cardboard, and office products. Many medical products and treatments are stored in aerosol cans. In California, aerosol cans are not considered hazardous waste as long as they are completely depleted. Examples of non-hazardous wastes would be sugars, lactic acid, bromides, or carbonates, just to name a few. Though these materials won't negatively affect the health of humans, they must be collected and disposed of properly for a variety of reasons. Non-Hazardous Waste Collection and Disposal. There is no one true way to collect and dispose of non-hazardous waste , simply because the wastes Non-hazardous waste includes any rubbish or recycling that causes no harm to human or environmental health. This can be from business or household producers. This can include general household waste like food or bathroom rubbish and recycling, and business wastes including any that come from industrial or agricultural sources. Waste can be offensive but not hazardous. This can include healthcare waste that is soiled but poses no threat to human or environmental health. Biohazard waste is defined as a biological material that has the potential to taint an object or individual that comes into contact with it. In even simpler terms, a biohazardous waste product can be anything contaminated with potentially infectious materials. Common types and examples of biohazard waste can be divided into: Infectious waste This list includes the following categories: ‐Growth media (e.g. agar, DMEM) ‐ Non‐toxic buffer solutions (e.g. PBS) ‐ Aqueous stains and dyes ‐ Dry milk, water, gelatin, vegetable oils, mineral oil, and other edible products ‐ Amino acids and salts (e.g. asparagines, alanine, lysine, serine) ‐ Sugars (e.g. agarose, maltose, dextrose) ‐ Hand soap, lotion, etc. Examples of activities that require an exemption include composting plant waste, using wood chips for animal bedding and burning plant matter in the open. Changes to environmental permitting and This is an alphabetical listing of the chemicals that have been determined to be non-hazardous wastes. If you know the name of the chemical you are looking for, use the first letter below, or just scroll though the list. If you have any questions you can call Environmental Health and Safety at x3461. A B Below we’ll review some examples of non-hazardous industrial waste, as well as what you should know as a business that generates this type of waste. Common Industrial Materials . Among common industrial materials that are still considered non-hazardous but could cause harm to the environment are: Ash; Sludges; Antifreeze; Grinding dusts; Liquids contaminated with non-hazardous chemicals; While in some states asbestos is not considered a hazardous waste, in California it is considered
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